A feast of 7 fishes plus . . .

Grilled sardines are served at Noah's, a new small-plate restaurant on Front Street in Greenport. (March 27, 2010) Credit: Gordon M. Grant
For the many Long Islanders who share both an Italian and Catholic heritage, the celebration of Christmas Eve involves a culinary tradition that marks the seven days of biblical Creation — as well as the seven sacraments of the Catholic Church. Known as La Vigilia — “The Feast of the Seven Fishes” — it’s a holiday supper that consists of oceanic edibles, all to be consumed before midnight mass. If you’re one of the many who will be looking for bass, shrimp, lobster and other surf-based victuals come December 24, here are some “swimming” suggestions on where to dine.
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