Almoncello

The energetic, fairly priced trattoria is owned by Eric Lemonides and Jason Weiner, whose bistro Almond thrives in Bridgehampton. They've gone from adios to ciao with an exclamation point and a sunny-yellow splash. The spot does have a set decorator's country style, with lots of Campari taking over from tequila. Italian-language posters for "La Dolce Vita," "Roman Holiday" and "The Godfather" bring more color. Service stays attentive and accommodating during mid-evening rush. Upbeat mood, inviting food.

THE BEST

Three eggplant antipasti: fried, pickled and in the sweet-sour Sicilian relish, caponata. Assertive Gorgonzola cheese sparks a salad of peppery wild arugula, beets and spiced pecans. Very good pastas: hand-cut linguine with cockles and white clam sauce, and spinach-goat cheese ricotta malfatti punctuated with hazelnuts. Macerated tomatoes and two breadsticks with a hint of anchovy complement a meaty, firm cut of local striped bass; baby root vegetables do the same for the whole roasted local black sea bass. Summery corn puree and crisp pancetta finish a main course of plump, pan-seared day-boat scallops. And grilled peaches become a fine foil for the pork rib eye with stewed escarole and broccoli rabe. Try a side order of savory root vegetables, spaghettini sprinkled with crunchy bread crumbs, braised greens and ripe tomatoes. Water Mill strawberries atop rosemary-spiked shortcake are intensified with a drizzle of balsamic syrup. The white-chocolate panna cotta, with hazelnuts and almond biscotti, could convert doubters.

THE REST

Overcooked octopus sinks an opener completed with gigante beans, black olives and a pesto of broccoli rabe. The house-cured meats, fresh mozzarella and green olives come together for a surprisingly ordinary appetizer. Spaghettini materializes molto al dente, with satisfactory meatballs and preserved tomatoes. The Nutella ganache and chocolate-espresso torte bring you closer to East Hampton than Bologna.

THE BOTTOM LINE

Did the Hamptons really need another Italian restaurant?

Yes.

Reviewed by Peter M. Gianotti, 8/22/08.