Seared pork belly with braised cabbage and apricot jam at...

Seared pork belly with braised cabbage and apricot jam at Barn Door 49 in Bay Shore. Credit: Newsday / Corin Hirsch

Wearing a woodsy new facade and a retro-looking marquee sign, Barn Door 49 has opened on West Main Street in Bay Shore, marking the end of the metamorphosis of Milk and Sugar Café.

The totally remade restaurant pairs a rustic, farmhouse vibe (and plenty of reclaimed wood) with a menu devoted to “country and comfort food” anchored in pastured meats, local seafood, artisan cheeses and seasonal ingredients.

The business is the latest for serial food entrepreneurs Gina and Lenny Jaworowski, who opened the breakfast-through-dinner spot Milk & Sugar nearly two decades ago, and closed it last fall. The couple also run the Victorian Room in town, as well as own a gourmet cupcake truck and a barbecue catering business.

The dramatic, six-month-long renovation at 49 W. Main St. has vanquished the couches that filled Milk & Sugar; in their place is a sleek tavern with a marble-topped bar and, through an archway, a Vermont-esque dining room with reclaimed wood tables and walls, hanging Edison-bulb lights, pillow-topped banquettes and a gas fireplace flickering in the center.

Dishes such as crispy pork belly with braised cabbage and grilled peach jam ($13), black-pepper tagliatelle with lamb Bolognese ($26) and local striped bass with tomatoes and bean ragout ($28) are executed by chef Anthony Citarella, formerly of Patchogue’s Locale, Massapequa Park’s Cavendish & Ross and a few other spots.

Anthony Lucero, who began working at Milk & Sugar eight years ago, is Barn Door 49’s bar manager and has put together a dynamic drinks program. Two of the restaurant’s 12 taps are given over to wine on draft (including a cabernet franc from Peconic’s Rafael) and the rest to craft beers from Great South Bay Brewery, Brooklyn’s Braven Brewing Company and others.

Cocktails draw on New York-produced spirits, such as the Brooklyn Gin base for No Sleep Till . . ., a mixed drink made with muddled herbs, citrus juices, simple syrup and lemon grass Kombrewcha ($12).

“We hope to bring a new normal to Bay Shore,” said Gina Jaworowski, “We did it in ’99, and I wanted to do it again.”

Jaworowski said that preparing “clean food” for her children helped inspire and shape Barn Door 49’s menu, which uses grass-fed meat, for instance — such as in buttermilk-fried chicken and waffles ($14) that’s served during Barn Door 49’s Sunday brunches.

Barn Door is open Tuesday to Saturday for lunch and dinner and Sundays for brunch, closed on Mondays.

Barn Door 49, 49 W. Main St., Bay Shore. 631-969-3655.

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