The hot lobster roll at Brewology 295 in Speonk is...

The hot lobster roll at Brewology 295 in Speonk is served with a chipotle-ranch aioli and hand-cut French fries. Credit: Newsday/Erica Marcus

Once a seasonal seaside treat, lobster rolls have been moving inland, inside and year-round. Still, they taste all the better when consumed close to the water. Long Island has also been seeing hot, butter-bathed lobster rolls take their place alongside cold, mayo-dressed ones, and we say: the more the merrier.

Here’s a sampling of Long Island lobster rolls, many of them with ocean, bay or sound views, but all of them worth the splurge.

Newsday food writer Scott Vogel goes on an epic lobster roll crawl along the South Shore, diving into New England- and Connecticut-style versions of the summer treat. Credit: Corey Sipkin

 Southold Social (56125 Main Rd., Southold): Pastry chef extraordinaire François Payard helms the kitchen at this new North Fork bistro and not only has he embraced all things savory in addition to sweet, he's embraced this American classic, albeit with some French refinement. Payard's lobster roll stuffed into a butter-griddled brioche bun and garnished with a whisper of herbs and piment d'Espelette, the distinctive chili pepper of France's Basque region. More info: 631-765-8888, southoldsocial.com

The lobster roll at Southold Social in Southold.

The lobster roll at Southold Social in Southold. Credit: Yvonne Albinowski

Little Gull Café (54 N. Phillips Ave., Speonk): This charming café inside Speonk's old train station is not open for dinner, but you'll be tempted to get the lobster roll even at breakfast. Chef-owner Will Pendergast not only poaches his own lobsters and fries his own potato chips, he makes the split-top buns that, buttered and griddled, are overstuffed with sweet, tender chunks of meat lightly dressed with mayo and chives. More info: 631-801-2176, littlegullcafe.com

Anchor Down Dockside (2479 Adler Ct., Seaford): The fine canal-side patio at chef Stephen Rosenbluth's establishment is worth the price of admission alone, but his lobster rolls are equally unmissable. There's the New England iteration, in which large chunks of claw and knuckle meat arrive lightly dressed with mayo and baptized with scallions, or the Connecticut-style one, whose equally large meat portions glisten with butter and glow in the afternoon sun. More info: 516-785-2390, anchordowndockside.com

Sand Castle on the Ocean (106 Lewis Walk, Cherry Grove): Fire Island may be less known for its food than spectacular beaches, but roll lovers won’t be disappointed by this Cherry Grove establishment. Chef Noelle Grant’s fine New England-style roll generously loaded with shredded meat is served on a croissant dressed with tarragon mayo. Enjoy one against a backdrop that can't be beat — Sand Castle is one of the island’s rare oceanfront eateries. More info: 631-597-4174, fireislandsandcastle.com

Brewology295 (295 Montauk Hwy., Speonk): Chef Roberto Carlos Leon's beer-friendly lobster roll is hot, overstuffed into a brioche roll, sprinkled with smoked paprika and accompanied by chipotle-ranch aioli and hand-cut French fries. Cold-roll partisans needn’t despair: Leon tosses chilled lobster with celery and herb aioli; the bun and fries remain the same. More info: 631-801-6221, brewology295.com 

The hot lobster roll at Brewology 295 in Speonk is...

The hot lobster roll at Brewology 295 in Speonk is served with a chipotle-ranch aioli and hand-cut French fries. Credit: Newsday/Erica Marcus

Butler’s Flat (86 Orchard Beach Rd., Port Washington): This stylish clam shack on Manhasset Bay serves up plenty of fried whole-belly-and-strips, but the lobster rolls are also a powerful draw. The menu advertises a chilled, Maine-style roll, but if you ask nicely — and Butler’s isn’t too busy — the kitchen will happily whip up a warm one of meat and drawn butter on a toasted bun. Wash it down with some Wölffer rosé. More info: 516-883-8330, butlersflat.com

The Clam Bar At Bridge Marine (40 Ludlam Ave., Bayville): At the entryway to Bridge Marine, a small sign reading "Clam Bar" is the only indication of this outdoor spot where you eat under a canopy cooled by overhead fans. Here, the excellent lobster roll is made with lots of shellfish, some mayo, a little celery and chopped onion. More info: 516-628-8688, bridge-marina.com

Shipwreck Tavern (10 Bayville Ave., Bayville): The New England-style lobster roll at this kitschy, lively waterside eatery is made with lobster meat, diced celery and chili-spiked mayo heaped onto a grilled potato bun drizzled with melted butter. Or your crew can get a quick fix with a trio of lobster roll sliders. More info: 516-628-2628, shipwreckpub.com

D.J.'s Clam Shack (multiple locations): Made with big hunks of knuckle and claw meat and butter-griddled top-split buns, lobster rolls here are available either warm (dressed only with butter) or cold (blended with celery and tarragon-scented mayonnaise). Both contain a full quarter pound of meat, but for sheer crustacean decadence, you can get an overstuffed lobster roll with twice the filling. More info: Locations in Wantagh, East Northport, Huntington and Stony Brook; djsclamshack.com 

The hot lobster roll at DJ's Clam Shack in Huntington.

The hot lobster roll at DJ's Clam Shack in Huntington. Credit: Linda Rosier

Jordan Lobster Farms (1 Pettit Pl., Island Park): When your stock in trade for decades has been lobster, you better turn out a fine lobster roll. Jordan's, Long Island's largest lobster wholesaler, makes a version stuffed with a time-tested, coral-hued salad of lobster meat, mayonnaise, lemon juice, celery and scallions, served with fries. Year after year, they try to keep the price in reasonable territory (in 2022, with surging lobster costs, it chimes in at $31.95). Dig in on the waterside dining area, at home or in the car on the way home. More info: 516-889-3314, jordanlobsterfarms.com

Sea Bar (7 Great Neck Rd., Great Neck Plaza). As the name suggests, this stylish spot (clad in tiles and nautical hues) is dedicated to all stripes of oceanic life, including two spins on a lobster roll — a warm, butter-kissed Connecticut-style version and another served chilled with herb mayo. Both come on toasted brioche buns, and both come with hand-cut fries. More info: 516-441-5708, seabar.life

The Rex Burger & Lobster (524 Jericho Tpke., Mineola): They may take second billing to burgers at this chic, counter-serve spot, but the lobster rolls are possibly even better. You'll not find a more straightforward specimen — little more than meat piled in a butter-toasted bun that is available chilled (with mayo or butter) or warm with melted butter. The classic sports 5 ounces of lobster; the supreme has 7.5 ounces. More info: 516-739-2747, therexburgerandlobster.com

Lobster Roll (1980 Montauk Hwy., Amagansett; 32 Montauk Hwy., Southampton): Roll lovers everywhere rejoiced last fall when a second location of the beloved East End landmark — a year-round one! — opened down the road in Southampton. The Amagansett original, popularly known as "Lunch" owing to its landmark sign, has featured a lobster roll on the menu since its inception in 1965. Both places showcase a classic take — just lobster, celery and mayo on a toasted bun. More info: 631-267-3740, 631-283-3460, lobsterroll.com

A lobster roll served at Lobster Roll in Amagansett.

A lobster roll served at Lobster Roll in Amagansett. Credit: Gordon M. Grant

Smuggler Jack's (157 Forest Ave., Massapequa): Secreted away in a residential area is a classic of the genre, a lobster roll made with big chunks of lobster meat (warmed by request), Old Bay, salt, pepper, a little celery and just enough mayo heaped over some greens on a buttery, toasted brioche bun. More info: 516-798-6000, smugglerjacks.com

Babylon Burger Bar (1 West Main St., Babylon): Co-owner Roy Feicco grew up in New England and felt it was his Yankee duty to offset the burgers with a classic lobster roll (mayo-dressed in a toasted potato roll, with chips). It's only on the menu from Memorial Day through Labor Day, when it accounts for up to half of all orders. The same lobster roll is also available all summer at Prime Burger Bar in Commack. More info: 631-620-3362, babylonburgerbar.com

Kerber's Farm (309 W. Pulaski Rd., Huntington): At this farmhouse-chic takeout spot, lobster is mixed with chopped celery and a minimum of mayonnaise, piled into a toasted hot dog bun and served with potato chips. Eat in the gravel-paved backyard, while the chickens cluck contentedly in their coop or even at your feet. Available weekends only. More info: 631-423-4400, kerbersfarm.com

Varney's (2109 Montauk Hwy., Brookhaven): You can't miss Varney's sign proclaiming "lobster rolls" in letters larger than the restaurant's branding — and you shouldn't miss the lobster rolls, available either chilled with mayo or warm with butter. Both are served on split-top brioche rolls whose sides are shaved so the bread can be more lavishly griddled in even more butter. Served with homemade coleslaw and crinkle-cut fries. More info: 631-286-9569, varneysrestaurant.com

The New England lobster roll at Varney’s in Bellport.

The New England lobster roll at Varney’s in Bellport. Credit: Corey Sipkin

 Salt & Barrel (61 West Main St., Bay Shore): The version at this oyster bar and seafood restaurant involves warm, butter-poached lobster with pickled celery and tomato aioli;  it's served with housemade chips. More info: 631-647-8818, saltandbarrel.com

Catch Oyster Bar (63 N. Ocean Ave., Patchogue): A warm roll generously laden with knuckle meat is the specialty of this small, friendly seafood eatery. Sparked with lemon mayo and served with ruffled chips, the sandwich makes for good last-minute fortification on the way to Patchogue’s nearby Fire Island ferry to Davis Park. More info: 631-627-6860, catchoysterbar.com

Louie’s (395 Main St., Port Washington): This North Shore landmark might has gone through its share of changes over the years, but one consistent draw has been Louie’s lobster roll. Drink in scenic views from the expansive patio overlooking the bay as you tuck into a cold, New England-style roll, generously stuffed and sparked with Old Bay-flavored mayo. More info: 516-883-4242, louiessince1905.com

Flo's (302 Middle Rd., Blue Point): Florence Kimball founded Flo's in 1923, just steps from Blue Point's Corey Beach. Since then it's become a local landmark — due, in no small measure, to classics like the chunky lobster roll, served with leaf lettuce on a hot dog bun. More info: 888-356-7864, flosfamous.com

The Lobster roll at Flo's in Blue Point.

The Lobster roll at Flo's in Blue Point. Credit: Newsday/Thomas A. Ferrara

Amici (304 Route 25A, Mount Sinai): Mount Sinai's veteran Italian-American restaurant Amici has a vast outdoor dining area where lobster rolls come with butter-poached meat served chilled with tarragon aioli and fries, or warmed with (more) butter. More info: 631-473-2400, amicirestaurant.org

Claws Seafood Market (20 Main St., West Sayville): One of Long Island's best fish markets maintains a menu of fish-shack favorites, including the classic, mayo-dressed lobster roll on a lettuce-lined toasted bun. For 2022, Claws has added a triple roll with nearly a pound of lobster meat. There's also the "Roddy" roll with bacon, a "naked" roll with butter instead of mayo, and a "firehouse" roll with jalapeños and sriracha. For a lighter bite, try the scaled-down version on a simple hot dog bun. More info: 631-256-5900, clawsseafoodmarket.com

Southold Fish Market (64755 Route 25, Southold): Half of this exemplary fish market is occupied by a counter-serve eatery, and there are also tables out on the lawn. A highlight is the lobster roll containing big hunks of freshly picked claw and knuckle meat from a 1¼-pound lobster, mixed either with mayonnaise and celery (cold) or melted butter (warm). Both come with coleslaw and your choice of salad (perfectly good) or French fries (fantastic). More info: 631-765-3200

A lobster roll with cole slaw and salad at Southold...

A lobster roll with cole slaw and salad at Southold Fish Market in Southold. Credit: Doug Young

Sayville Bait & Tackle (220 N. Main St., Sayville). Two lobster rolls populate the menu at this Sayville spot, best described as a nautical-themed roadhouse. It's hard to decide which is most decadent: the traditional, chilled Maine-style roll or the "Naked, Not Afraid," an unadulterated version of claw meat and drawn butter on a split-top bun. For a twist on surf and turf, the Gold Standard burger pairs a Pat La Frieda grind with cool lobster salad. More info: 631-256-2626, sayvillebaitandtackle.com

North Fork Table & Inn (57225 Main Rd., Southold): The landscaped seating area adjacent to the restaurant's food truck is an idyllic setting to indulge in either the hot "CT Lobby Roll" — served with drawn butter, smoked paprika and wild chives — or the "ME Lobby Roll" with mayonnaise, celery and fennel sea salt. More info: 631-765-0177, northforktableandinn.com

Claudio's (111 Main St., Greenport): Jutting into Greenport Harbor is the breezy, bustling deck of Claudio's, the oldest restaurant in town. The menu features two lobster rolls: classic mayo-cold and Connecticut butter-hot, both served with chips. More info: 631-477-0627, claudios.com

Haskell’s Seafood Market and Cafe (77A Main St., Westhampton Beach): At his market-cafe, owner Peter Haskell serves as an advocate of local seafood — which means you won't find anything that is not caught in Long Island waters or landed by boats that dock here. His two lobster rolls, hot and cold, are made with freshly picked Montauk lobster and (aside from herb butter in the former, mayo in the latter) very little else. Have them to go or enjoy on the quiet patio behind the store. More info: 631-288-7287

The hot lobster roll at Haskell's Seafood Market and Cafe...

The hot lobster roll at Haskell's Seafood Market and Cafe in Westhampton Beach. Credit: Newsday/Erica Marcus

Clam Bar (2025 Montauk Hwy., Amagansett): The roadside shack's excellent cold lobster roll is made with lots of meat, some mayo and a little celery heaped onto a bun. A fine hot lobster roll is also available. More info: 631-267-6348, clambarhamptons.com

Bostwick's Chowder House (277 Pantigo Rd., East Hampton): East Hampton's O.G. casual seafood spot scores with two classic rolls, cold or hot, both stuffed with lobster and served on griddled hot dog buns with your choice of coleslaw, fries, potato salad or chips. (the cold version is also available at Bostwick's on the Harbor; 39 Gann Rd., East Hampton). More info: 631-324-1111, bostwickschowderhouse.com

Duryea's (65 Tuthill Rd., Montauk): Watch the sun set over Montauk's Fort Pond Bay from the vantage point of Duryea's serene dock. The lobster roll (made with mayo, celery and lemon juice and served on a potato bun) with homemade sweet potato chips and slaw, is a perfect accompaniment. (The same roll, plus a warm-butter version, is available at Duryea's in Orient Point.) More info: 631-668-2410, duryealobsters.com

Lazy Lobster (10 Front St., East Rockaway): If you're not from southwestern Nassau, you may not know about East Rockaway's walkable waterfront. A must-stop on your stroll is the Lazy Lobster food truck whose rolls are studies in proportion, featuring heaps of claw meat on deeply toasted, buttered split-top buns. Choose from four versions: traditional-style, with mayo, Connecticut-style (aka warm) with tarragon-citrus butter, "rock lobster" with bacon and diced tomatoes, and "angry," with a touch of spice. All come with shoestring fries and coleslaw. More info: 516-837-8484, lazylobsterny.com

The warm Connecticut lobster roll with tarragon citrus butter, coleslaw...

The warm Connecticut lobster roll with tarragon citrus butter, coleslaw and shoestring fries at Lazy Lobster in East Rockaway. Credit: Daniel Brennan

View (3 Consuelo Pl., Oakdale): In fine weather, the VIew's capacious dining room spills out onto an equally ample waterfront patio at the mouth of the Connetquot River, one with a panoramic view of the Great South Bay beyond. The restaurant could not be more aptly named. View's lobster roll, seasoned with dill and served on a buttered, toasted roll, completes the scene. More info: 631-589-2694, viewoakdale.com

JT’s on the Bay (1 Curtis Rd., Blue Point): The lively deck at JR's almost feels as if it's floating on the water, and it's a fine place to kick back with a cold one and an overloaded lobster roll of  chilled, creamy claw and knuckle meat on a toasted, split-top bun. If there is such a thing as lobster roll fatigue, though, you can take your crustacean several other ways: Steamed, broiled, stuffed or baked, In tacos, over fettucine, or even in a fried-green tomato lobster salad. More info: 631-363-2205, jtsonthebay.com

Commander Cody's Seafood (41 Smith St., Shelter Island): Among the specialties at this modest South Carolina Lowcountry-meets-Peconic Bay establishment is the lobster roll, chunky, succulent and creamy with mayonnaise and celery, served on a hot dog bun. More info: 631-749-1851

Salted. On the Harbor (14 Woodbine Ave., Northport): The "Lawbsta Roll" at this harborside bistro is a study in largesse, and can easily feed two. The kitchen stuffs a toasted, buttered brioche bun with hunks of lobster meat until they can't fit anymore; the claws reach skyward, the mayo-based dressing is creamy and studded with slivered celery, and a layer of Bibb lettuce gives the entire thing extra crunch. More info: 631-651-2600, saltedontheharbor.com

With Dorothy Guadagno-Levin.

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