Enso no Sato Japanese opens in Huntington

For many diners, Japanese cuisine is synonymous with sushi, but Enso no Sato, which opened on Feb. 9 in Huntington, has a dual focus: sushi and izakaya (savory small plates), both of them at an affordable price.

Owner Keai ("key-eye") Carmen Shi said she wanted to "create a casual atmosphere for people living here, where they can come daily" and she chose a name that, in Japanese, conveys peace and community. Enso, she explained, refers to the hand-inked circular form that, in Zen Buddhist practice, symbolizes enlightenment, and "no sato" means "in the village."

Izakaya translates to "stay-drink-place," and is the sake-centric cousin of the gastropub and the wine bar. Enso no Sato offers six sakes (designed to be enjoyed cold), as well as nine wines and four Japanese beers. The heart of the izakaya menu is yakitori, grilled skewers, among which are chicken tenders, thighs, meatballs and skin; vegetables including okra, shishito peppers and various mushrooms; seafood selections such as shrimp and scallops. Two-skewer orders range from $5.95 to $8.95. You’ll also find more common savory small plates like gyoza and shumai, miso-glazed eggplant and agedashi tofu.

On the sushi front, Shi wants to carve out a niche between weeknight-friendly nearby spots (e.g. Kashi, Osaka, Ichiz, Umami) and big-deal newcomer House of Yoshin, where omakase is $180 for 16 courses. At Enso no Sato, there are two options, 12 courses for $85 and 18 courses for $135. Chef Alex Zheng (a 25-year veteran who most recently worked at Nobu) changes the menu weekly to take advantage of the best seasonal fish which, right now, includes bluefin tuna, amberjack, jumbo sweet shrimp, striped jack, fatty tuna served with Serrano ham and caviar, smoked ocean trout, scallops from Hokkaido island and red sea bream from Ehime Prefecture.

If omakase feels like too big a commitment, there are 20 a la carte selections ($7-$18) and five signature rolls ($18 to $23). Don’t feel like sushi or izakaya fare? Enso no Sato has you covered with teriyaki, katsu (fried cutlets), ramen, udon or miso-glazed cod ($14-$28)

Shi, an interior designer, has transformed the old Neraki space, creating a front room centered around a 10-seat omakase and a back room dominated by a bar. It’s a clean, sleek restaurant done in neutrals with pops of celadon and spruce, with extravagant orchids brightening up the bar and fresh flowers on every table.

Enso no Sato, 273 Main St., Huntington, 631-470-4589, ensonosato.com. Open Sunday to Thursday noon to 9:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday noon to 10:30 p.m. Omakase is available for lunch at 2 p.m. Tuesday to Friday and for dinner every night starting at 5 p.m. Reservations for omakase are required.