Betty's Burgers & Ice Cream Bar opens in Merrick

Betty’s Burgers & Ice Cream Bar has that beachside burger vibe down pat: The casual menu is focused on playfully deployed patties and elaborate sundaes; the decor is shabby-surf chic and the playlist leans on Motown and doo-wop. As for beachside, it’s adjacent to Open Bay Marina and, if it weren’t for the aqua fence that surrounds the patio, you could see the water through the parking lot.

The shipshape little building has housed a number of establishments — among them Sunset Bar & Grill, JDs on the Bay, Cozy Clam and Harbor Lights — before Anchor Down opened there in 2014. In 2023, Anchor Down’s chef-owner, Stephen Rosenbluth, relaunched it as The Rabbit Hole Bar & Grill, which closed the following year. (Anchor Down Dockside, est. 2020, lives on, seasonally, in Seaford.)

Managing partner Tommy Casabono said Betty’s has been busy since it opened on Aug. 11. "It’s a lot of families coming early. Later on, we have people from the marina coming in for a drink after a day on the boat." He’s considering instituting a "reverse happy hour" for after-dinner quaffers. (There’s a full bar, with a dozen seats.)

Chef Jonathan Chevlin, a veteran of the six-link Burgerology chain, is determined to distinguish burgers from the pack. As opposed to a "monster 8-ounce patty," Betty’s burgers are constructed with two 4-ounce patties. "With the smaller ones, you don’t get that weighed-down feeling," he said. Even though two 4-ounce patties weigh the same as one 8-ounce one? "Hey," he quipped, "I’m not a scientist!"

I’d call his burgers half-smashed, with a crunchy sear on one side, a softer cushion for toppings on the other. The Betty’s Original ($18) is a classic with American cheese and a secret sauce, but it is distinguished by a well-proportioned brioche bun that neither dominates nor disintegrates, and a shower of shredded romaine lettuce, which adds more than crunch.

There are nine regular burgers on the menu, the most expensive ($24) of which is the Carolina Stack with pork rib tips, melted Cheddar, coleslaw, bacon jam and Carolina gold BBQ sauce. The Garlic Pesto Smash ($21) features melted mozzarella, caramelized onions, arugula, tomatoes and pesto-garlic mayonnaise. Every week brings a special: Act now to enjoy the Taco Burger, with Cheddar, street-corn aioli, Tajin-dusted tortilla strips, guacamole, roasted jalapeños and bacon. Like all special burgers, it’s $23 and will be available at least through Tuesday .

Off-burger selections include starters such as baked pretzel with beer cheese ($15) and Southwest chicken egg rolls ($16), sandwiches like Philly cheesesteak ($20) and a chicken-avocado BLT ($18) and three salads ($21 to $22).

Sundaes ($15 for a small, $18 for a large) are a welter of ice creams, chocolate sauce, hot fudge, marshmallows, sprinkles, candies, breakfast cereals and whipped cream. Plus shakes and chocolate blackout cake.

Betty’s Burgers & Ice Cream Bar, 1960 Bayberry Ave., Merrick, 516-208-7301, bettysburgerbar.com. Open Tuesday to Thursday 4 to 9 p.m., Friday 4 to 10 p.m., Saturday noon to 10 p.m., Sunday noon to 9 p.m.