Pistaschio-crusted rack of lamb is one of the French specialties...

Pistaschio-crusted rack of lamb is one of the French specialties served at Bistro Cassis in Huntington. Credit: Michael Falco

April in Paris may seem far away. But it's possible to wave the tricolor at a few restaurants in Nassau and Suffolk. Liberty, equality, gastronomy. Here are three choices.

Bistro Cassis in Huntington, cozy and charming, sets the right mood and dependably serves the classics with some dishes crossing borders, too.  Recommended: oysters; onion soup gratinee; vichyssoise; Nicoise salad; croque monsieur; lamb, roast chicken for two; strip steak au poivre; hanger steak Bordelaise; duck breast with cassis sauce; braised short ribs in red-wine reduction. Moderate.

Bistro Cassis, 55-B Wall St., Huntington, 631-421-4122, bistrocassis.com

Brasserie Cassis in Plainview is a buoyant, bigger, full-flavored relative of Bistro Cassis. The decor will transport you from the shopping-center location. So will the food. Recommended: frisee aux lardons; baked escargots in garlic-herb butter; mussels mariniere; onion soup gratinee; duck confit "tacos;" trout amandine; roast chicken for two; steak frites; beef Bourguignonne on Saturday; braised lamb shank on Sunday. Moderate.

Brasserie Cassis, 387 S. Oyster Bar Rd., Plainview, 516-653-0090, brasseriecassis.com

Stone Creek Inn in East Quogue has French roots but also veers New American, balancing both with refined cuisine and considerable style. Recommended: barbecue duck wings; duck meatballs with apple cider reduction; poached oysters; rice balls with fontina cheese; pan-roasted skate with cauliflower mousseline and leek fondue; soft shell crabs with spring vegetable fricassee; filet mignon au poivre; herb-and-mustard crusted rack of lamb. Expensive.

Stone Creek Inn, 405 Montauk Hwy., East Quogue, 631-653-6770, stonecreekinn.com

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