Bobby Van's

Willie Morris and James Jones, John Knowles and Truman Capote, Irwin Shaw and Nelson Algren. They all must be wondering what happened.

Bobby Van's, the Hamptons' lionized saloon-as-salon, holds on to the name, but little else. The restaurant with this name, however, can be pretty good.

They prepare a satisfying crab cake, with a mustardy sauce remoulade, and dependable shrimp, lobster, and crab meat cocktails. But you can skip dishes such as duck strudel and the Thai shrimp taco.

The better main courses are steak house staples: porterhouse, sirloin, filet mignon, veal chop, lamb chops. But when things get too complicated, the choices are less appealing. The wasabi doesn't make it in these potatoes, and the fettuccine with seafood isn't a specialty. Respectable sides: baked potato, garlic mashed, creamed spinach. Top dessert: cheesecake.

Even with its new identity, you still imagine the old haibitues having a drink and probably a good laugh.