Carle Place: Dark victory

It was about six months ago that I happened upon the superlative oyakodon at Taka in Westbury. Here was the rare chicken-and-egg-over-rice bowl that was made with dark meat, not breast. Yesterday I hit the jackpot again, this time at Koiso in Carle Place. Perusing the takeout menu, I inquired if the oyakodon was made with white meat. Owner Kyoko Mitsumori made a face: “We only make it with white meat if someone asks for it,” she said. “Dark meat is much better.”

And so, less than 30 minutes later, I was enjoying this oyakodon at my desk. It was terrific, a sweet-savory mélange of moist dark chicken chunks, scrambled eggs, onions and scallions.

Mitsumori told me that Koiso’s chicken teriyaki is also made with dark meat. Necessitating another trip to Carle Place.

Koiso is at 540 Westbury Ave., Carle Place, 516-333-3434.