Choopan Grill in Selden.

Credit: Bruce Gilbert

The Kabuli palau is a majestic dish that features slow-cooked lamb shank under a bed of rice that’s scented with cardamom, tossed with sliced almonds and draped with ribbons of carrots and plump raisins at Choopan Grill in Selden.

Credit: Bruce Gilbert

Choopan Grill is tucked in the back of a Selden shopping mall.

Credit: Bruce Gilbert

Choopan Grill in Selden changed hands three years ago with Rona Mirzai and her daughters taking over the space.

Credit: Bruce Gilbert

Choopan Grill owner Rona Mirzai is one of the metropolitan area’s Afghan-cooking pioneers. 

Credit: Bruce Gilbert

Afghan-style naan is baked in the tandoor oven at Choopan Grill in Selden.

Credit: Bruce Gilbert

Badinjan Burani is a silken fried eggplant dish finished in a curry of tomatoes, onions and jalapeños at Choopan Grill in Selden.

Credit: Bruce Gilbert

Kadu, chunks of caramelized pumpkin finished in a tomato, garlic and cayenne curry, is drizzled with yogurt and dusted with dried mint at Choopan Grill in Selden. 

Credit: Bruce Gilbert

At Choopan Grill in Selden, the platter of sambosa, a less doughy version of a samosa, comes with fillings that include ground beef, ground chicken, spinach or crispy onion laced potatoes. 

Credit: Bruce Gilbert

The Sultani Kebab at Choopan Grill in Selden is a heaping platter of tender lamb tikka chunks, meaty chicken kofta and basmati rice.

Credit: Bruce Gilbert

Aushak, boiled hand-made dumplings, are filled with a garlic-laced leek mixture, topped with a tomato-rich ground “chicken sauce,” drizzled with yogurt and garnished with dried mint at Choopan Grill in Selden.

 
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