Victor's Pizza & Pasta House on Rte. 110 in Melville has a shiny new sign, a busy little trattoria, and a corner on the local mozzarella market.

An informal count shows more than 50 ways to love your mozzarella. The irresistible choices, of course, are the baked casserole combos -- the Full Moozie. An example: Victor's special, with lasagna, ravioli, ziti, stuffed shells and meatballs, all under a big blanket of white; and the "dinner combos Parmigiana," which include the trinity of veal, chicken and eggplant together; and the union of lasagna, chicken Parm, stuffed shell and ravioli.

Victor's also draws a crowd for its nightly specials. Yesterday was pasta night and seafood night at the same time. The tuna Siciliano, covered with black olives, onions and tomatoes: very good.

It's a casual, friendly eatery along a route dominated by fast-food standbys and a couple of high-end dining rooms. Kids welcome. The whole softball team, welcome. As is anyone who's hungry before, during or after work.

And those pizzas, garlic knots, panini and hero sandwiches mandate a return visit.

Victor's Pizza & Pasta House, 712 Walt Whitman Rd., Melville; 631-351-1270.

Mozzarella madness ...