Celebrate the coming summer at the Clam Bar at Napeague...

Celebrate the coming summer at the Clam Bar at Napeague in Amagansett. Credit: File / Ellen Watson

This is as basic as it gets. Order at the counter and take a seat. Or take-out. The staff never went to charm school, and the wait can be maddening at lunch. But the Clam Bar at Napeague is a little summer institution and is a mandatory stop for one thing: the meatiest, most flavorful lobster roll around. Here's a first-class lobster salad with minimal intrusion. You also can pick fried seafood, chowders and a round of specials. The best advice, of course, is to buy the salad, pick up better bread somewhere else, make your lunch, and go to the beach.

Lobster roll: At this roadside stand with picnic-table seating, big chunks of lobster meat, a little celery and just a touch of mayonnaise are mounded onto a lightly toasted potato hot dog roll and served with a small side of coleslaw (market price). There's much to be said for simplicity and freshness and just the right proportions.

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