Pasta e fagioli from Vincenza, a new restaurant in Huntington...

Pasta e fagioli from Vincenza, a new restaurant in Huntington Station. Newsday Photo/ Peter Gianotti Credit: Newsday/Peter Gianotti

Emilio's in Commack is known for a lot of tasty dishes, from classic pasta e fagioli soup and lasagna to a range of first-class pizzas. There are plenty of ways to get your red sauce.

One of my new favorites here is an appetizer that suggests a reconstructed hero sandwich: Mamma Mia roasted meatball, or, to be precise, meatballs. They could inspire a musical.

You receive three light, full-flavored meatballs in a ripe, sweet tomato sauce. They're capped with a dollop of fresh ricotta and completed with three artfully arranged pieces of garlic bread. Emilio's lists it as an appetizer, but realistically it could double as a main course. Mamma would be proud. So would Grandma, who has a savory pizza named for her, too.

Emilio's has expanded the dining area of its "pizzeria bistro bar." Go with a group.

Emilio's is at 2201 Jericho Tpke., Commack; 631-462-6267.

The meatball(s) appetizer