Deli on Rye

One of life's essentials is knowing where to find a good kosher deli. Add to your list Deli on Rye, a modest-looking spot tucked into a Waldbaum's shopping center in Albertson. Whatever your ethnic or cultural background, you can always find comfort in a bowl of chicken soup, a hot pastrami sandwich, a potato knish.

MAZEL TOV

The ambrosial chicken matzo ball soup is about as close as restaurant soup has ever come to what my grandmother used to make. The broth shimmers golden-yellow and tastes deeply of simmered chicken, dill and fresh vegetables; floating on top are slightly firm pieces of carrot, al dente noodles (lukshen) and an airy, flavorsome matzo ball. I also enjoy the soup with kreplach, satisfying meat-stuffed pasta pillows.

Four of us share a few appetizers. There's cool gefilte fish that gets a jolt of heat from horseradish, served on the side. A plate of chicken fricassee with meatballs in brown gravy disappears quickly; we also get potted meatballs - homey, hearty, great on a cold evening.

On such a night, the pastrami on rye approaches perfection, the meat just fatty enough. I'm particularly taken with a lush warm tongue sandwich. Another time, I crave rare roast beef on rye with Russian dressing; what arrives is ideal. A pal orders a veggie burger and the chargrilled patty turns out to be smoky and surprisingly likable. And I can't resist a Hebrew National frank, which spurts garlicky juices when bitten. Accompanying hand-cut fries are golden brown, addictive. Competition takes the form of a flaky, fluffy, oniony baked potato knish.

Servers, unlike the grumpy old deli men of yesteryear, are a cheerful, accommodating lot. Most happen to be women who speak with Spanish accents but know knishes from kishkes.

OY

I'm not impressed with the overcooked rotisserie chicken, nor the waterlogged string beans almandine on the side. An order of hot roasted turkey (dark meat, if you please) is unattractively plated and bland, relying on thick, brown gravy for flavor. And a sandwich of turkey on rye comes off as chokingly dry.

A finale of cold rugalach can only be described as lackluster; warmed, however, it's pretty good. Both apple strudel and bread pudding look way better than they taste.

BOTTOM LINE

When the yearning for deli classics hits, Deli on Rye has your fix. Good to know when times get tough.