Review: Edoardo's Trattoria in Huntington
With Italian restaurants of all kinds scattered across Long Island, Edoardo’s presents itself as a trattoria of a decidedly different stripe. Tucked onto a prime Huntington Village corner, Edoardo’s evokes the cozy ambience of eating in Italian meccas like Rome, Florence and Tuscany. And that’s a very good thing.
Edoardo Erazo is the driving force here, assisted by his wife, Abi, a talented chef in her own right, and son, Adi, who runs the front of the house. The bi-level space is separated into two sections. Up front is a cafe-market-pastry shop where you can start your day with an Italian pastry and an expertly pulled espresso.
Or, have a seat in the back dining room and have one of Erazo’s beautifully wrought sandwiches on homemade focaccia, like the Oddfellow, made with Tuscan prosciutto and pecorino, arugula and truffle cream.
There is also a roster of pastas including linguine with shrimp and lemon sauce, fettuccine ai funghi with forest mushrooms, arugula, white wine, cream and Parmigiano-Reggiano, and a hearty pappardelle alla Bolognese. All the pastas are made on the premises and all are for sale in the market.
At night, the lights are dimmed, the pastry counter is closed, and Erazo sets up for dinner service, featuring a seasonal menu that changes weekly. You might start with a salad — of which there are many — including fennel, spinach, beet, and Portobello — then move onto those pastas. Recent offerings have included a squid ink infused spaghettone with Manila clams, a fusilli with caramelized onions, sautéed zucchini, mint and Pecorino, plus a decadent jumbo raviolo stuffed with spinach and egg yolk in truffle butter.
But if you’re taking a carb break, you might find branzino, turbot encrusted in whole salt, Dover sole "alla mugnaia," with lemon butter and capers, or a veal chop more to your liking. To drink, some lovely Italian wines, espresso martinis, and a flurry of spritzes — Campari, Aperol, or Limoncello. Finish strong with one of Erazo’s classic desserts — we suggest the sfogliatelle stuffed with ricotta and orange cream or the pistachio cheesecake, an airy burst of sweetness at the end of a beautiful meal.
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