Ella's, a summer pop-up with wood-fired pizza, takes over Old Fields in Greenlawn

Gains and losses travel together — so while Greenlawn may have lost smoked-duck French dip (at least for the summer), the hamlet has gained smoked-duck pizza, as well as birria tacos, hot fried chicken and wood-fired wings.

Old Fields Restaurant, the decade-old spot that David and Christine Tunney opened in 2010 (and before that was the Old Fields Inn), has ceased operations in preparation for a dramatic monthslong reboot, said David Tunney. In its place is a brand-new summer pop-up called Ella's, a takeout-only venture anchored by a wood-fired Italian oven and chef Koji Kakimoto.

"It's a little shock for the town," said Tunney of the Old Fields closure, but added that Old Fields will reopen this fall as Old Fields New Tavern. "We're really passionate about what we like to make and cook and eat, and we've been working on the [Ella's] concept for awhile." 

Kakimoto, the former executive chef at Honu in Huntington, has been with Old Fields for close to a year, Tunney said. Last winter, the chef appeared on the Food Network show "Chopped," and has cooked in kitchens across Long Island.

The kitchen for Ella's is at least partially outside, where a wood-fired Forza Forni oven has been installed to bake seven iterations of pizza (such as the one topped with smoked duck breast, Brie cream and caramelized onion, or another with grilled peaches, Piave Vecchio cheese, arugula and ricotta). The oven is also used to fire wings that are served with hot sauce and blue cheese. 

Ella's serves two riffs on fried chicken — one hot, one "showered" with honey; birria (shredded short-rib), al pastor, porgy or mushroom tacos; and salads in combinations such as beets with whipped goat cheese and pistachios or melon with prosciutto and fried provolone.

No item is over $20, intentionally, and orders are contactlessly delivered to customers' cars by masked, gloved staff. "We've learned a lot in the pandemic about how to adapt," Tunney said. Ella's is also pouring $13 cocktails to go — among them, strawberry margaritas, blackberry-cucumber gin and tonics, blueberry mojitos and tea-based Dragoon punch.

Tunney expects Ella's to stick around until at least late September, when he will debut Old Fields New Tavern with a renovated interior and new menu. "It will be a little cool, a little funky, a little different," he said. (Old Fields Restaurant in Port Jefferson remains open for takeout, and will begin outdoor service next week; both Old Fields Barbecue spots remain open, too, one each in Huntington and East Setauket).

Ella's is open for dinner beginning at 5 p.m. Tuesday to Friday and 4 p.m. on Saturday and Sunday. Orders can be called in to 631-754-9868 (the menu is at ellasny.com) and picked up at 81 Broadway in Greenlawn.