Baby back ribs are cooked low and slow in 100...

Baby back ribs are cooked low and slow in 100 percent hickory smoke, and served with mac and cheese, mashed sweet potatoes, and corn bread at Estelle�s Contemporary Smokehouse and Bar in Farmingdale. (May 28, 2011) Credit: Heather Walsh

While working on a story about Long Island's best ribs, I attempted to reach Estelle’s Contemporary Smokehouse & Bar in Farmingdale. It seems the place is taking a break —  at least that’s the impression given by both the sign out front (which reads:  "Grand Reopening Coming Soon”) and the message that greets  telephone callers.

According to the female voice on the recording, the place is under renovation and chef co-owner Evan Randell is expected to reopen with a new winter menu.

The restaurant, which specialized in slow-smoked barbecue and more, received a two-and-a-half star rating for Randell's ambitious cooking: deeply smoky ribs —  beef as well as pork — as well as  super sides (hand-cut fries and white beans with pancetta and fresh herbs) and fine house-made desserts.

Keeping an eye on the place.

Estelle's Contemporary Smokehouse & Bar is at 169 Main St., Farmingdale, 516-586-8700.

 
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