Fancy takes on simple food: 4 notable spots
Heirloom Tavern in Glen Head puts out a lobster taco comprising a soft corn tortilla that's lightly grilled before being filled with lobster meat, mango salsa, celery root, carrots and spicy aioli. Credit: Bruce Gilbert
Casual luxuries
When a stellar chef works on a homey menu, the results can make you rethink the original. Here are three ways to find out.
Jason Weiner excels at this French-American bistro with dishes such as smoked oyster-and-cauliflower chowder, salt-cod brandade croquettes, charred squid and shaved fennel, grilled Berkshire pork chop, and a grand hamburger. $$$
1 Ocean Rd., Bridgehampton; 631-537-5665, almondrestaurant.com
Kent Monkan's winner at the Glen Head railroad station attracts you with choices as different from each other as a Scotch egg and a lobster taco, seafood gumbo and lobster bisque, an ahi tuna burger and a meatball hero, arugula with manchego and endive with Gorgonzola. $$$
32 Railroad Ave., Glen Head; 516-686-6633, heirloomtavern.com
Elmer Rubio coaxes the most out of countless ingredients, whether it's a Thai-style calamari salad, green lentil soup with Parmesan cheese, rack of pork with pineapple chutney and Tahitian vanilla-spiked sweet potatoes, a hot rice pudding or a coconut flan. $$-$$$
655 Montauk Hwy., East Patchogue; 631-758-7640, chachamagrill.com
Marc Anthony Bynum, twice winner of Food Network's "Chopped" competition, creates an opulent foie gras "PB&J" that brings together a buttery puck from a torchon, mixed berry preserves, peanut butter mousse, candied kumquat and brioche. $$-$$$
291 Main St. Farmingdale; 516-293-4874, hushamericanbistro.com
