Passover is not only the most tradition-infused of the Jewish holidays, its the one most tied to food. The seder itself uses the foods on the seder plate to guide the discussion and, for many Jewish families, the meal that follows can be as set in stone as the matzo, bitter herb, roasted egg, shank bone and haroset. But every tradition can use a little tweak. Perhaps youre up for a slightly different pot roast this year, or maybe you want to chuck your usual menu for a whole new meal. Here are some ideas to get your started. 

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FISH CAKES WITH HORSERADISH SAUCE 
2 large eggs 
1 (24-ounce) jar of gefilte fish (6 pieces), drained 
1/4 cup chopped scallion 
2 ribs celery, chopped 
1/2 cup matzo farfel 
1/2 cup matzo meal 
1 tablespoon fresh dill (plus more for garnish) 
1/3 cup light mayonnaise 
1 tablespoon prepared white horseradish 
2 tablespoons olive oil, divided 
1. Lightly beat eggs in large bowl; add gefilte fish and mash with potato masher or large fork. Stir in scallion, celery, farfel, matzo meal and dill. Form into 12 (1 / 2-inch-thick) patties. 
2. Combine mayonnaise and horseradish and set aside. 
3. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large, nonstick skillet over medium high. Add 6 patties and cook until golden brown on the undersides, 5 to 6 minutes. Turn and cook until again golden on the undersides. Keep warm in a low oven. 
4. Repeat, using the remaining oil and patties. Serve topped with a dollop of the horseradish sauce. Makes 6 servings (2 cakes for each serving). 
Nutritional analysis for each serving: 246 calories, 13 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 11 g protein, 19 g carbohydrates, 2 g fiber, 829 mg sodium 
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GEFILTE FISH WITH SHALLOT VINAIGRETTE 
1 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar 
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 
1 tablespoon finely chopped shallot 
1 (24-ounce) jar gefilte fish (6 pieces), drained 
6 cups field greens 
2 Persian cucumbers, cut into thin slices 
1 cup shredded carrots 
1. Whisk vinegar and oil in small bowl until creamy looking. Stir in shallots and set aside. 
2. Slice the fish across on a slight diagonal into 1 / 3-inch-thick pieces. 
3. Combine greens, cucumbers and carrots. Just before serving, toss with 2 tablespoons dressing. Divide among 6 plates. 
4. Top each plate with fanned slices of the fish; drizzle the remaining dressing over the fish. Makes 6 servings. 
Nutritional analysis for each serving: 169 calories, 10 g fat, 2 g saturated fat, 8 g protein, 9 g carbohydrates, 3 g fiber, 755 mg sodium 
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GEFILTE FISH WITH LEMON SAUCE 
1 (24-ounce) jar gefilte fish 
2 carrots, thinly sliced 
1 medium onion, thinly sliced 
2 ribs celery, sliced 
1 tablespoon lemon juice 
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 
1 tablespoon sliced green olives 
2 tablespoons chopped parsley 
1. Combine gefilte fish and jelled broth from jar in saucepan; stir in carrots, onion and celery and enough water to just cover the fish. Bring to a boil; immediately reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, 20 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool. Transfer to a bowl, cover and refrigerate at least 1 hour. 
2. Make the dressing: Whisk lemon juice, olive oil and olives until thickened. Stir in parsley. 
3. Place 1 piece of fish on each plate with several slices of carrot and celery. Drizzle dressing over the fish and serve. Makes 6 servings. 
Nutritional analysis for each serving: 166 calories, 10 g fat, 2 g saturated fat, 8 g protein, 8 g carbohydrates, 2 g fiber, 771 mg sodium

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Marge Perry

FDMARGE03.WEB

3 Simple gefilte fish recipes

fdMARGE

The commemoration of the Exodus from Egypt is the rare Jewish holiday whose principal celebration is not at the synagogue, but in the home. The heavy lifting is done not by the rabbi but by the home cook whose job it is to prepare the seder, the ritual Passover feast. 
But what if the rabbi is also the cook? 
That's the case with Jonathan Waxman, rabbi at Temple Beth Sholom in Smithtown. This year he will be presiding over seders on the first and second nights of Passover (April 14 and 15), and he'll also be the main force behind the meals. 
Waxman, an enthusiastic and accomplished home cook, said that most other Jewish holidays have culinary components. "You eat dairy for Shavuot, hamantaschen for Purim. For Hanukkah you light candles, eat latkes, sing songs and take a Zantac," he said. "But at Passover, the center of the action is the meal." 
Two cooks, with specialties 
The rabbi doesn't go it alone in the kitchen. His wife, Sarrae Crane, makes her own gefilte fish from scratch, as well as chicken soup from her mother's recipe. ("I think she skims off a little too much fat," he said. "It's an annual argument.") And one of Waxman's go-to recipes, cabbage kugel, is also from his mother-in-law, Ann Crane. "This is a kugel," he said, "for people who don't like kugel, and who don't like cabbage." 
Mostly, Waxman likes to get creative in the kitchen. One of the nights, he'll serve multicolored peppers stuffed with ground turkey and quinoa. (For years, there was a debate as to whether the South American seeds were kosher for Passover; since the Orthodox Union weighed in on the side of quinoa, Waxman considers the matter settled.) 
Salad holds off hunger 
One area where he departs from tradition is in the salad service, which he brings to the table directly after the Haggadah instructs participants to dip the karpas (green vegetable) in salt water. "I got this idea from Ron Wolfson [author and professor at the American Jewish University in Los Angeles]. I heard him speak, and he suggested serving the salad right after you dip the karpas. I thought, 'Wow! This will stop people from saying they are starving.' " 
Along with a traditional Ashkenazic haroset of apples, walnuts and sweet wine, the rabbi always looks for something "interesting," such as a recipe that originated with the Jewish community of Curacao for haroset balls made with dried fruits and cashews and rolled in cinnamon. 
No matter what's on the menu, Waxman's table is laid with lifetimes of tradition. Many of the items -- Israeli matzo plate and haroset dish, Miriam's cup (a goblet that honors the role of the Exodus prophetess and also the contributions of all Jewish women) -- were handcrafted. 
Wine's ritual, remembrance 
The dominant feature on the table is doubtless the enormous Elijah's cup, capacious enough to hold an entire bottle of wine. "This was on my parents' table as long as I can remember," he said. "And when my father died, I became the custodian." Waxman's father was Mordecai Waxman, who served as rabbi of Great Neck's Temple Israel from 1947 to 2002. To honor his mother, Ruth, who died in 1996, he tries to serve a bottle of wine from Ruth Vineyard, a boutique winery in the Judean hills. 
One Waxman family tradition that the rabbi has abandoned is the use of boiled potatoes for karpas. "It's a Litvak [Lithuanian] tradition from my grandfather's seder," he explained. "In that part of the world, come late March-early April, what vegetables are around? The potatoes left in the cellar from the previous fall." 
No such vegetables of affliction adorn Waxman's seder plate. In the promised land of Long Island, it's celery from Fairway. 
Recipes 
BEET-CUCUMBER SALAD 
To ease hunger, Jonathan Waxman serves a salad during the seder, at the point where the karpas (green vegetable) is dipped into saltwater. 
6 medium beets (golden or red or a combination, all about the same size) 
1 English cucumber 
1/2 large sweet onion, thinly sliced 
1 1/2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar 
1 1/2 tablespoons honey 
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil 
1/2 to 1 teaspoon salt 
1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Line a baking tray with heavy-duty aluminum foil. Place beets, in 1 layer, on tray; draw up foil and crimp on top to seal. Cook beets for 60 to 90 minutes, until a fork pierces them easily. When they are cool enough to handle, use a paper towel to remove the skin. Quarter the beets, then cut the quarters into 1/4-inch-thick slices 
2. Cut the cucumber in half lengthwise, then cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices. Place in a large bowl with beets and add onion slices. 
3. To make dressing, combine the vinegar, honey, oil and salt; pour over the vegetables. Toss to mix well. Makes 8 to 12 servings. 
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STUFFED PEPPERS WITH QUINOA AND GROUND TURKEY 
Now that the Orthodox Union has declared quinoa kosher for Passover, Waxman serves this first course for guests who don't like gefilte fish. 
1 cup quinoa 
2 cups chicken stock 
8 colored bell peppers 
1 tablespoon vegetable oil 
1/2 sweet onion, chopped 
4 cloves of garlic, minced 
1 pound ground turkey 
Salt and pepper to taste 
1 (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes, drained, juice reserved (or half of a 28-ounce can) 
1 (15-ounce) can tomato sauce 
1. Combine quinoa and chicken stock. Bring to boil, cover and reduce heat. Simmer 15 to 17 minutes, until the liquid has been absorbed. 
2. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Cut off tops of peppers and remove the seeds. Remove and discard the stems from the pepper tops, then chop the tops. 
3. Film a large skillet with oil, add chopped onion, garlic and chopped pepper tops and cook over medium-high heat until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the ground turkey, salt and pepper, and, mashing turkey against the skillet, cook until no raw color remains and meat begins to brown. Add the drained tomatoes, stir to combine, and cook until most of the liquid is absorbed. Take off heat, add the cooked quinoa and mix thoroughly. 
4. Grease or spray a 13-by-9-inch baking dish with nonstick spray. Pour in the tomato sauce along with reserved juice. Stir to combine. Fill each pepper with the turkey-quinoa mixture and place upright in the dish. Cover with foil and bake 30 minutes. Remove foil and bake 10 minutes longer, or until peppers are tender. Makes 8 servings. 
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CURAÇAO HAROSET BALLS 
This recipe comes from the Jewish community of Curaçao, one of the New World's oldest Jewish communities. 
14 pitted dried dates 
10 pitted prunes 
8 dried figs 
1 lemon, cut into chunks and seeds removed 
1 cup golden raisins 
1 cup unsalted cashews 
1 cup honey 
1 cup sweet red wine 
Cinnamon, to coat 
1. Combine dates, prunes, figs, lemon, raisins and cashews in a food processor and pulse to chop coarsely. Add the honey and wine and pulse to combine everything into a paste. Refrigerate for at least 1/2 hour. 
2. Spread cinnamon in a shallow dish, roll fruit mixture into walnut-size balls, then roll each ball in cinnamon. Makes about 30 balls. 
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CHICKEN BREASTS WITH SHIITAKE MUSHROOMS AND TOMATOES 
Before the seder, prepare this dish up through Step 4. Cover cooked cutlets with foil to keep them warm; cover skillet to keep sauce warm. When dinner starts, bring sauce to a simmer, slip cutlets into sauce and cook until chicken is hot and cooked through. 
Vegetable oil 
3 pounds boneless, skinless chicken cutlets 
3 shallots, minced 
1 small bunch fresh thyme 
3 to 4 cloves of garlic, minced 
2 tablespoons white vinegar 
1/2 pound shiitake mushrooms, sliced 
1/2 cup dry white wine 
1 1/2 cups chicken broth 
1 bunch of scallions, trimmed and cut into 1-inch segments 
3 to 4 plum tomatoes, seeded, and diced 
1 tablespoon potato starch mixed with 2 tablespoons water 
1. Film a large skillet with oil, place over medium-high heat. When oil is hot, slip as many cutlets as will fit comfortably into pan and cook until they just start to brown on one side; turn and cook until just brown on the other side. Set aside and repeat with remaining cutlets. 
2. Put a little more oil in the pan and add shallots and half the thyme sprigs. Saute over medium heat until shallots begin to soften. Add thyme and garlic; continue to cook until shallots are soft and translucent, 2 to 3 minutes. Garlic should barely brown. 
3. Add vinegar, turn up heat and cook until liquid is almost evaporated. Add mushrooms and cook 2 minutes, until they begin to give up their moisture. Add wine and cook until liquid is almost evaporated. 
4. Add broth and scallions and simmer 1 to 2 minutes longer. Add diced tomatoes and remaining thyme. Heat through. Add the potato starch with water and cook until thickened. 
5. Add the chicken back to the pan, cover and cook 2 to 3 minutes before serving. Makes 8 to 12 servings. 
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CABBAGE KUGEL 
Rabbi Waxman's wife, Sarrae Crane, inherited this recipe from her mother. It even appeals to people who don't like cabbage and don't like kugel. 
1 (3-pound) green cabbage 
1/2 to 1 teaspoon salt 
6 eggs, separated 
6 tablespoons oil 
2 tablespoons sugar 
1 teaspoon vanilla extract 
1 firm apple, peeled and grated 
1/2 cup matzo meal 
1. Quarter, core and rinse cabbage. Shred in food processor and place into salted boiling water to cover. Boil slowly until tender, 25 to 30 minutes. 
2. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Strain the cabbage and pour cold water over it. Squeeze out water from cabbage by hand and place in a large mixing bowl. Add egg yolks, oil, sugar, vanilla and apple to bowl and stir to combine. Stir in matzo meal. 
3. Grease an 11 1/2-by-7 1/2-inch baking dish. Beat egg whites until fluffy and stiff (but not dry) peaks form. Fold beaten egg whites into cabbage mixture. Pour into greased pan and bake until browned, about 1 hour. Makes 8 to 12 servings. Can be served hot or at room temperature. 
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LEMONY POTATOES 
You can make this a day ahead of time and reheat for the seder. 
2 lemons 
8 Yukon Gold potatoes (2 1/2 to 3 pounds) 
1/4 cup olive oil 
1 tablespoon fresh oregano 
1 tablespoon fresh thyme 
1 teaspoon salt 
Pepper to taste 
1 cup chicken broth 
1. Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Remove zest from lemons using a vegetable peeler. (Try not to get the white pith.) Stack the ribbons of zest and use a sharp knife to slice finely. Cut the lemons in half and juice them; you should have about 1/3 cup. (If you don't, add the juice of an additional lemon.) 
2. Cut the potatoes into 1-inch-thick wedges and place them and the oil in a baking dish large enough to accommodate them in 1 layer. Add the lemon zest and juice, oregano, thyme, salt and pepper and toss to combine. Cover dish with foil and bake 20 minutes. Uncover dish, add chicken broth and continue to cook until broth has evaporated and potatoes are tender and starting to brown, about 40 minutes. Makes 8 to 12 servings. 
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BROWNIES 
These brownies are a Passover favorite in the Waxman household. They bake perfectly in a disposable aluminum 8-by-8-inch pan. 
2 eggs, slightly beaten 
1 cup sugar 
1/4 cup cocoa powder 
1/4 teaspoon salt 
1/2 cup vegetable oil 
1/2 cup matzo cake meal 
1/2 cup chocolate chips 
1/2 cup chopped walnuts 
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease an 8-by-8-inch pan. 
2. Combine eggs, sugar, cocoa powder and salt in a large bowl. Add oil and mix well. Stir in matzo cake meal, then stir in chocolate chips and walnuts. 
Pour into pan and cook until a cake tester comes out almost clean, 20 to 25 minutes. Makes 8 to 12 servings. 
CORRECTION:&nbsp; An earlier version of this story called for and additional 1/3 cup lemon juice.&nbsp; In addition, Ron Wolfson was incorrectly identified. 
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FDCOV03.WEB

Passover seder 2014: Long Island rabbi shares tips, recipes

FDCOV03

Is packaged matzo ball mix good enough for Passover? 
Last year, after decades of making my own matzo balls, I used the kosher for Passover packaged mix from Streit's (which simply contains matzo meal, salt, pepper, onion, garlic). I still had to add eggs and oil, but the results were better than any I've ever made. I'm a convert. No more scratch knaidlach for me. 
Whether you make your own or use Streit's mix, form and refrigerate the balls the morning of the seder. A few hours before dinner, poach them in plenty of generously salted water (or they will be bland), then keep them warm in a colander, covered, over simmering water. Introduce them to the soup just before serving. 
As for soup, I've never had good chicken soup from a mix. In a pinch, I've been known to gussy up canned broth thusly: Start with low-sodium broth. For each quart add a quartered onion, a large carrot cut into large pieces and a couple of ribs of celery (the supermarket salad bar is a good source for small amounts of carrot and celery). Add some whole peppercorns, parsley sprigs and a few peeled cloves of garlic and simmer for an hour. Strain the broth. (At this point, to get a little fancier, you could put the broth back on the stove, add some neatly diced carrot and celery and simmer until the vegetables are tender.) Garnish with dill. 
HOMEMADE CHICKEN SOUP 
Make this chicken soup the day before the seder. After it's been refrigerated overnight, it will be easy to skim off the fat. 
For the broth: 
4 to 5 pounds cut-up chicken (see note) 
1/2teaspoon black peppercorns 
1 tablespoon kosher salt (or 11/2 
teaspoons table salt) 
2 large onions, peeled and quartered 
2 medium carrots, cut into large pieces 
3 ribs celery, cut into large pieces 
6 sprigs dill or parsley or combination of both 
4 sprigs thyme 
2 bay leaves 
For the finished soup: 
2 medium carrots, peeled and diced 
2 ribs of celery, diced 
Matzo balls 
Chopped fresh dill for garnish 
1. Place chicken pieces in large stockpot along with peppercorns, salt, and enough water to cover by 2 inches. Heat over medium until the liquid starts to simmer. Adjust heat to maintain a low simmer and cook, uncovered, for about 45 minutes, occasionally skimming any foam and fat that rise to the top. 
2. Using a slotted spoon or tongs, remove breasts (if using) and reserve for soup. Simmer soup for another 45 minutes, then remove and reserve the thighs. Leave wings, drumsticks and/or backs and feet in the pot. Add the onion, carrots, celery, thyme and bay leaves, Continue to simmer for another 11/2 hours, stirring and skimming occasionally and adding the dill and/or parsley for the last 10 minutes. 
3. Remove pot from heat. Remove and discard all the meat, vegetables and herbs. (They will have given up all their taste.) Strain stock through a fine-mesh sieve or a colander lined with cheesecloth. Taste for salt. Refrigerate the soup and, if desired, skim off excess fat when it solidifies. 
4. About 45 minutes before you plan to serve the soup, bring it to a low simmer. (If you don't have 3 quarts, add a little canned chicken broth.) Shred as much of the reserved breast and thigh meat as you desire and add to the soup. Add the diced carrot and celery, and simmer until the vegetables are just tender, about 15 minutes, then add the cooked matzo balls and, if desired, some of the reserved breast and thigh meat. Simmer for 5 minutes more and season to taste. Garnish with dill. Serves 8 to 12 as a first course. 
Note: Don't just use chicken breasts to make soup; wings, backs, even feet will give a fuller flavor and better texture. Best bet: ask the butcher to cut up whole chickens.

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FDBURN03.WEB

How to make matzo ball soup

matzo ball soup

How do you like your matzo brei? 
When it comes to matzo brei (matzo fried with egg), the split in world Jewry is not between Ashkenazic and Sephardic, but between those who like it scrambled and those who like it pancake-style. I appreciate both styles, but give the edge to the pancake. Here's how I make it: 
Stick to plain matzo 
The pleasant, eggy taste of egg matzo gets lost in a brei, and whole wheat lends a coarse, sodden note. Among plain matzos, however, I have found no discernible differences among brands. 
Breaking and soaking 
My preferred method of preparing the matzo is to break it, dry, into halves or quarters so it fits in the bowl, then soak it in cold water until it's just pliable. Finally, break it into smaller pieces and allow these to soak until they've reached the desired softness. Hot water will soften the matzo quicker, but then you run the risk of making it too soft. I don't like it to soak into an undifferentiated mush. 
Get the water out 
It's essential to get as much water as possible out of the soaked matzo because only then will it soak up the maximum amount of egg. Place the drained matzo in a colander, then squeeze it out by hand. 
The eggs 
I like my matzo brei the way I like my French toast: eggy and custardy. To achieve this, I use a high egg-matzo ratio of one-to-one. I use no milk, but I do whisk a fair amount of salt into the eggs before adding them to the matzo. Otherwise, no amount of exterior salt will counteract the matzo's blandness. After I add the matzo to the eggs, I let the mixture rest for a few minutes so the egg begins to penetrate the matzo. 
Frying the brei 
Get a nonstick pan good and hot, add as much butter as you can stand, and, when the foaming subsides, add the egg-matzo mixture. For pancake-style, cook until the brei is browned on one side, then gently flip. For scrambled . . . scramble it. No matter which type of brei you're making, keep the heat high enough to give you crisp surfaces and creamy insides. Moderate heat will result in monotonous brei. 
Serving 
If you're going savory, sprinkle on a little coarse salt and some freshly ground black pepper. Lately, I've been anointing my matzo brei with good olive oil to excellent effect. For sweet brei, the sky's the limit when serving: syrup, honey, cinnamon sugar, strawberry jam, orange marmalade. 
What's the best way to boil an egg? 
I'm not going to say that this way is the best, but I think it may be the most foolproof. 
The January issue of Cook's Illustrated magazine featured a recipe for "foolproof soft-boiled eggs" that has you bring a half-inch of water to boil in a saucepan, place the eggs in the pan, then cover and steam them for 61/2 minutes. That works like a charm, but I go years -- even decades -- without the need for a soft-boiled egg. 
Would the same method work for hard-boiled eggs? Yes, indeed. After 9 minutes, the whites were firm, the yolks still a little moist. If you like yolks completely dry, increase the time to 10 or 11 minutes. 
To quickly cool eggs, take them out of the pan (which will remain hot) and immerse them in a bowl of cold water and ice.

FDBURN21.WEB

Burning Questions: Making matzo brei

fdMATZOBREI-CROPPED

Seder dinner may be the most beloved meal of the Jewish year, but it's also the most daunting: All the elements must be ready to go -- and then abandoned -- for the hour or two it takes to get through the prayers, singing and stories in the first part of the seder. 
A successful <a href="/topics//Passover">Passover</a> dinner depends on careful planning. Here's a menu and a minute-by-minute timeline that takes you through all the preparations to serving the meal. Except for gefilte fish, everything is made from scratch. 
This year, the first night of <a href="/topics//Passover">Passover</a> falls on March 25. Since sundown will be at around 7:15, we're using that as a start-seder time. Seders can run anywhere from 30 minutes to three hours; you'll probably be ready to eat by 8:30, but the timetable for this Seder is adjustable. Observant Jews, who do not cook or shop on Saturday before sundown, can do the work Saturday evening. 
ONE WEEK AHEAD 
Shop, order shank bone, order gefilte fish from fish store or purchase it at supermarket. 
SATURDAY NIGHT 
Soup: Make broth, strain and refrigerate. 
Brisket: Make, cool and refrigerate. 
SUNDAY MORNING 
Soup: Make matzo ball mixture, refrigerate. 
SUNDAY AFTERNOON 
Brisket: Skim fat, reduce sauce, slice and place meat in ovenproof serving dish. 
Roast vegetables: Prepare, roast and refrigerate in ovenproof serving dish. 
SUNDAY EVENING 
Dessert: Make torte and compote. 
Set table: Take out all serving pieces. 
MONDAY MORNING 
Soup: Prepare vegetables (chopped parsnips, carrots, etc.) for serving soup. 
Soup: Form matzo balls, refrigerate. 
Asparagus: Zest, section and juice grapefruit. 
Asparagus: Make vinaigrette. 
Asparagus: Trim asparagus. 
Seder plate: Roast shank bone and egg; make haroset; wash herbs, bitter herbs; make salt water. 
Wine: Refrigerate whites. 
MONDAY EVENING 
4:00 Take brisket and roasted vegetables out of refrigerator to come to room temperature. 
5:15 Preheat oven to 400 degrees. 
5:30 Roast asparagus for about 15 minutes, remove, cover with foil. 
5:45 Bring matzo-ball-cooking broth to simmer, poach matzo balls for about 20 minutes, then keep warm in a colander, covered, over simmering water. 
6:00 Bring soup to simmer, add prepared vegetables. Cook until vegetables are just tender, then cover and turn off heat. Chop dill for garnish. 
6:45 Place brisket, covered, into 350-degree oven. 
6:40 Plate gefilte fish and leave on counter (short seder) or stack in refrigerator (long seder). 
7:00 Assemble seder plate. 
7:10 Turn oven off with brisket (covered) inside. 
SEDER 
Add matzo balls to soup, bring soup to simmer. 
8:35 Turn oven back to 350 degrees, put roasted vegetables alongside brisket to reheat. 
8:35 Serve gefilte fish. 
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MATZO BALLS 
In this recipe from "The Mile End Cookbook" (Potter, $27.50), Noah Bernamoff cautions, "When you're rolling them, you're not making a meatball. You don't want them to be too tight and dense, so use a gentle touch." 
1 1/2 cups matzo meal 
4 large eggs 
1/3 cup schmaltz (chicken fat) or olive oil 
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt 
1/4 teaspoon black pepper 
1 tablespoon baking powder 
8 cups chicken broth 
1. Mix all the ingredients except the chicken stock together in a large bowl. Cover and refrigerate for 2 hours. (You can make the mixture a day ahead; store it in a sealed container that has enough room to allow it to expand.) 
2. Form the mixture into balls that are a little larger than a quarter; they should be completely smooth on the outside with no cracks. Put the chicken broth in a wide pot and bring to a bare simmer. Cook the matzo balls for 20 minutes. (Discard broth, save for another purpose or use to extend your homemade soup.) Add cooked matzo balls to finished chicken soup, or keep them warm by placing them in a colander and placing the colander in a covered pot that has an inch or so of simmering water on the bottom.) Makes about 10 matzo balls. 
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CHICKEN SOUP 
This recipe is adapted from "The Mile End Cookbook" by Noah and Rae Bernamoff. If you don't want to make your own chicken broth, skip down to step 4 and proceed with 3 quarts of canned low-sodium broth. 
For the broth: 
3 small chickens (2 1/2 pounds each), each cut into 8 pieces 
10 whole black peppercorns 
2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more to taste 
2 medium parsnips, peeled and quartered 
2 medium carrots, peeled and quartered 
2 stalks of celery, trimmed and quartered 
2 large onions, peeled and quartered 
3 sprigs dill 
3 sprigs flat-leaf parsley 
3 sprigs thyme 
2 fresh bay leaves 
For the soup: 
2 medium parsnips, cut into 1/2-inch cubes 
2 medium carrots, cut into 1/2-inch cubes 
2 ribs of celery, trimmed, cut into 1/4-inch dice 
Matzo balls (see recipe) 
Chopped fresh dill for garnish 
1. Place chicken pieces in large stockpot along with peppercorns, salt, and enough water to cover by 2 inches. Heat over medium until the liquid starts to simmer. Adjust heat to maintain a low simmer and cook, uncovered, for about 1 1/2 hours, occasionally skimming any foam and fat that rise to the top. 
2. Using slotted spoon or tongs, remove breast and thigh sections; reserve for the soup (or another use, such as chicken salad), leaving drumsticks and wings in pot. Add the parsnips, carrots, celery and onions and continue to simmer for another 1 1/2 hours, stirring and skimming occasionally. 
3. Remove pot from heat and add dill, parsley, thyme and bay leaves. Allow herbs to steep for 30 minutes, then remove all meat, vegetables and herbs and discard. (They will have lost all their taste.) Strain stock through a fine-mesh sieve or a colander lined with one ply of a two-ply paper towel. Refrigerate the soup and, if desired, skim off excess fat when it solidifies. 
4. About 45 minutes before you plan to serve the soup, bring it to a low simmer. (If you don't have 3 quarts, add a little canned chicken broth.) Add the cubed parsnip and carrot, and the diced celery. Simmer until the vegetables are just tender, about 15 minutes, then add the cooked matzo balls and, if desired, some of the reserved breast and thigh meat. Simmer for 5 minutes more and season to taste. Garnish with dill. Serves 8 to 12 as a first course. 
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ROASTED ASPARAGUS WITH GRAPEFRUIT 
In this recipe, adapted from "The Lee Bros. Charleston Kitchen" by <a href="/topics//Matt_Lee">Matt Lee</a> and Ted Lee (Potter, $35), asparagus is gussied up with grapefruit sections, zest and a grapefruit vinaigrette. 
2 grapefruits, preferably a ruby variety 
Kosher salt 
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar 
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard 
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided 
2 pounds medium asparagus, trimmed of any woody ends 
Freshly ground black pepper 
1. With a zester or Microplane grater, scrape some grapefruit zest from the skin of the fruit for garnish, and reserve. 
2. Slice off top and bottom of each grapefruit. Place flat on a cutting board and, following contour of the fruit, use a sharp knife to remove the peel and white pith. Now cut in between the membranes to release each section. Hold grapefruit over a bowl while you do this to catch any juice. When you're finished, squeeze what's left of the grapefruit to release any remaining juice -- each grapefruit should yield about 1/2 cup of juice. Reserve segments and juice separately. 
3. Make vinaigrette: Add 1/4 teaspoon salt, the vinegar and the mustard to the bowl with the grapefruit juice and whisk to combine. Pour in 4 to 6 tablespoons of olive oil, whisking to emulsify. 
4. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Put asparagus on a large, rimmed baking sheet in one layer. Add 2 tablespoons olive oil, salt and pepper and coat all spears. Roast for 15 minutes, moving spears around with a spatula every 5 minutes or so. 
5. Transfer asparagus to platter, scatter the grapefruit segments evenly. If the dressing has separated, whisk to re-emulsify, pour it over the asparagus and grind some black pepper over the top. Garnish the platter with the reserved zest and serve. Makes 8 servings. 
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POMEGRANATE-ROASTED ROOT VEGETABLES 
This recipe was developed by Newsday columnist Marge Perry. You can make it early in the day or the day before you plan to serve. 
1 (1-pound) bag frozen baby onions, thawed 
1/2 pound parsnips, peeled and cut in 1/4-inch slices 
1 pound unpeeled new potatoes, cut in 1/2-inch pieces 
1 pound unpeeled Yukon Gold potatoes, cut in 1/2-inch pieces 
1 pound turnips, peeled and cut in half, then in 1/4-inch slices 
1/2 pound carrots, peeled and cut in 1/2-inch pieces 
2 1/2 teaspoons salt 
1 teaspoon dried thyme 
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 
1/4 cup dry sherry 
1/2 cup pomegranate juice 
1. Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Toss all ingredients together in a large bowl. Transfer to a large roasting pan and cook for 30 minutes, tossing occasionally. Turn the pan in the oven and cook until vegetables are tender, about another 15 minutes. 
2. To reheat, bring to room temperature, then place in a preheated 350-degree oven for about 10 minutes. Makes 8 servings. 
&nbsp; 
FLOURLESS ALMOND TORTE WITH APRICOT COMPOTE 
Newsday columnist Lauren Chattman developed this recipe, and she advises that when making this torte, be careful not to overbeat the egg whites (they should form very soft, not stiff, peaks) or the cake may sink in the center as it cools. 
For cake: 
2 1/2 cups (10 ounces) blanched slivered almonds 
1 1/2 cups sugar 
7 eggs, divided 
1/4 teaspoon salt 
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract 
Confectioners' sugar 
For compote: 
2 cups water 
1/4 cup sugar 
2 cups (about 40) dried apricots, coarsely chopped 
2 bay leaves 
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract 
1. Make cake: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Spray a 9-inch springform pan with nonstick cooking spray and line bottom with parchment. Spray parchment with cooking spray. Combine almonds and sugar in work bowl of food processor and process until finely ground. 
2. Separate 4 of the eggs, placing yolks in a large mixing bowl and whites in another large mixing bowl. To bowl with yolks, add remaining 3 eggs, salt, vanilla extract. Whisk until smooth. Stir in almond-sugar mixture until smooth. 
3. Use an electric mixer to whip reserved whites until very floppy peaks just form. Gently fold into batter. Scrape batter into prepared pan and smooth top with a spatula. Bake until a skewer inserted into center comes out clean, 45 to 50 minutes. Check on cake after 35 minutes. If it is browning too quickly, loosely tent with foil for final 10 to 15 minutes. Run a paring knife around the edges of the cake, but cool it completely in pan on wire rack. 
4. Make compote: Combine water and sugar in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat. Lower heat and simmer until thickened slightly, about 5 minutes. Stir in apricots, bay leaves and continue to cook another 5 minutes. Remove from heat, scrape into a bowl, add vanilla extract and let cool to room temperature. Remove and discard bay leaves. 
5. To serve, release cake from sides of springform pan and sift some confectioners' sugar over it. Slice and serve with compote on the side. Makes 8 servings. 
&nbsp; 
VERY EASY BRISKET 
This recipe is almost as easy as the ubiquitous onion soup mix recipe, and it tastes much better. The meat and vegetables give off moisture as they cook, so there is enough liquid. 
2 large onions, cut in half and thinly <a href="/topics//Sliced_(show)">sliced</a> (about 3 cups) 
1 large carrot, peeled and chopped (about 1 1/2 cups) 
1 cup golden raisins 
1 cup canned chopped tomatoes 
1/4 cup Dijon mustard 
1 tablespoon kosher salt 
1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper 
1 (4- to 5-pound) brisket (do not remove layer of fat) 
1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Place onions, carrots, raisins, tomatoes, mustard, salt and pepper in a baking pan or casserole just large enough to accommodate meat. (A 4 1/2-pound brisket fits well into a 13-by-9-inch Pyrex pan.) 
2. Mix vegetables to combine well, then lay meat in pan, fat side up, and move some of the vegetables to go on top of the meat. Cover with heavy-duty foil and bake for 15 minutes, then turn oven temperature down to 300 degrees and continue cooking 3 to 4 hours, or until a metal skewer can be easily plunged into the thickest part of the roast. You want the liquid in the pan to be simmering as slowly as possible -- just the occasional bubble. 
3. Let brisket cool in sauce. When cool, remove meat and pour sauce into saucepan. Reduce over medium-high heat until slightly thickened. To add body to sauce, you can puree a portion of the vegetables either by using an immersion blender, or by transferring some of them to a blender or food processor, processing, and then returning them to the saucepan. 
4. While sauce reduces, slice brisket and lay it in a smaller baking pan. (It will have shrunk substantially.) Cool sauce slightly and pour back over brisket. (If making in advance, cover with foil and refrigerate.) To serve, preheat oven to 350 degrees. Bake foil-covered brisket until heated through, about 30 minutes (45 if brisket has been refrigerated). Makes 8 servings.

FDCOV14.WEB

Seder, stress-free: A timetable and recipes

torte-CROPPED

MATZO KUGEL WITH VEGETABLES 
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided 
3 medium onions (4 cups), chopped 
8 ounces sliced mushrooms 
2 (9-ounce) boxes frozen artichoke hearts 
5 carrots (2 cups), cut into 1/4-inch dice 
7 eggs, divided 
1 (16-ounce) box matzo farfel 
1/2 teaspoon thyme 
1 1/2 teaspoons salt 
1/2 teaspoon black pepper 
1 cup parsley, chopped 
4 cups low-sodium chicken or 
vegetable broth 
1. Coat an 11-by-7-inch baking dish with cooking spray. Heat oven to 350 degrees. 
2. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large, nonstick skillet over medium; add onion and cook until soft and golden, about 20 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl. 
3. Add mushrooms to skillet; cook until browned, about 5 minutes. Add to bowl. 
4. Add 2 tablespoons of the oil to skillet; add artichokes and carrots and cook until carrots are tender, about 10 minutes. Transfer to bowl. 
5. Beat 5 of the eggs with fork; toss with farfel. Add 1 tablespoon oil to skillet; add farfel and cook, stirring often, until it is toasty, 5 to 6 minutes. Transfer to bowl; stir in the thyme, salt, pepper and parsley and transfer to baking dish. 
6. Combine the 2 remaining eggs with broth and pour over the farfel. Bake 45 minutes, or until the center is no longer wet. Makes 16 servings. 
Nutritional analysis for each serving: 223 calories, 8 g protein, 33 g carbohydrates, 4 g fiber, 7 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 301 mg sodium 
------ 
ROASTED ASPARAGUS WITH LEMON 
3 pounds asparagus, trimmed 
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 
1/2 teaspoon salt 
1/4 teaspoon black pepper 
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon grated fresh lemon zest1. Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Coat 2 large baking sheets with cooking spray. 
2. Toss asparagus with oil, salt and pepper. Arrange in a single layer on the baking sheets and roast in the center of the oven until crisp-tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Place on serving platter, sprinkle with zest and serve hot or at room temperature. Makes 8 servings. 
Nutritional analysis for each serving: 69 calories, 4 g protein, 7 g carbohydrates, 4 g fiber, 4 g fat, 0 saturated fat, 145 mg sodium 
------ 
VEGETABLE TZIMMES 
1 (3/4 pound) sweet potato, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks 
3 carrots, cut on a diagonal into 1-inch pieces 
1 cup pitted prunes 
2 medium onions (about 3/4 pound) 
cut into eighths lengthwise, then 
across in half 
3/4 pound white potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks 
1 (28-ounce) can whole plum tomatoes, coarsely chopped 
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon 
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg 
1/4 cup orange juice 
1 teaspoon salt 
1. Combine sweet potato, carrots, prunes, onion, white potatoes and canned tomatoes with their juices in Dutch oven. 
2. Stir in cinnamon, nutmeg, orange juice and salt and bring to boil over medium- high heat. Immediately reduce heat to low, cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until potatoes, carrots and onions are very tender, about 1 hour. Makes 12 servings. 
Nutritional analysis for each serving: 116 calories, 2 g protein, 27 g carbohydrates, 4 g fiber, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 333 mg sodium

FDMARGE29.WEB

3 Simple Passover side dishes

I came up with this recipe as an alternative to the ubiquitous onion-soup-mix recipe. It is almost as easy, and tastes much better. Don't worry about there not being any liquid added to the pan; the meat and vegetables will give off more than enough moisture as they cook.&nbsp; 
 2 large onions, cut in half and thinly sliced (about 3 cups) 
 1 large carrot, peeled and chopped (about 1 1/2 cups) 
 1 cup golden raisins 
 1 cup canned chopped tomatoes 
 1/4 cup Dijon mustard 
 1 tablespoon salt 
 1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper 
 1 (4- to 5-pound) brisket 
 1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Place onions, carrots, raisins, tomatoes, mustard, salt and pepper in a baking pan or casserole just large enough to accommodate meat. (My 4 1/2-pound brisket fit perfectly into a 13-by-9-inch Pyrex pan.) 
 2. Mix vegetables to combine well, then lay meat in pan, fat side up, and spoon some of the vegetables on top. Cover with heavy-duty foil and bake for 15 minutes, then turn oven temperature down to300 degrees and continue cooking 3 to 4 hours, or until a metal skewer can be easily plunged into the thickest part of the roast.You want the liquid in the pan to be simmering as slowly as possible--just the occasional bubble. 
 3. Let brisket cool in the sauce. When cool, remove brisket and pour sauce into a saucepan. Reduce over medium-high heat until slightly thickened. To add body to the sauce, you can puree a portion of the vegetables in the sauce either by using an immersion blender or by transferring some of them to a blender or food processor, processing, and then returning them to the unpureed vegetables still in the saucepan. 
 4. While sauce reduces, slice brisket and lay it in a smaller baking pan (it will have shrunk substantially). Cool sauce slightly and pour back over brisket. (If making in advance, cover with foil and refrigerate.) To serve, preheat oven to 350 degrees. Bake foil-covered brisket until heated through, about 30 minutes (40 if brisket has been refrigerated). Makes 8 servings.

ny-food-brisket1-recipe

Very easy brisket

ITALY IN AMERICA 
Antinori, one of the top Tuscan producers, has brought drinkers classics such as Solaia and <a href="/topics/Tignanello">Tignanello</a>. The family has made wine for more than 600 years. 
Antica is a hybrid name, combining Antinori and <a href="/topics/California">California</a>. It designates Antinori's Napa Valley estate. 
The 2007 Antica Napa Valley Estate <a href="/topics/Cabernet_Sauvignon">Cabernet Sauvignon</a> ($55) is a balanced, fragrant red, showing both finesse and power. Concentrated red fruit defines this elegant cabernet, a stellar addition to the repertoire. 
You'll also enjoy the lively, very fresh 2009 Antica Napa Valley Estate <a href="/topics/Chardonnay">Chardonnay</a> ($35): complex, slightly minerally white wine, but immediately accessible, with pear and peach flavors, leading to a long finish. 
Both are food-friendly wines. The cabernet calls for a porterhouse or sirloin steak, prime rib or roast beef, rack or leg of lamb. The versatile <a href="/topics/Chardonnay">chardonnay</a> goes with roast veal, pork chops, swordfish, cod, flounder, steamed or stuffed lobster. 
 PASSOVER 
Two good choices for the Passover table include the 2009 Mount Hermon Red ($12), a satisfying blend of <a href="/topics/Cabernet_Sauvignon">cabernet sauvignon</a>, merlot and <a href="/topics/Cabernet_Franc">cabernet franc</a>; and the plummy 2009 Galil Mountain Merlot ($15).

FDDRINKS14.WEB

Antinori Napa Valley and Passover wines

fdDRINKS

Tip: The lamb and peppers may be made two days in advance, and the matzo balls may be made and frozen a week ahead and thawed overnight in the refrigerator. 
Roasted Mini Sweet Peppers 
2 pounds mini sweet bell peppers 
2 tablespoons top-quality 
extra-virgin olive oil 
4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced (lengthwise) 
1. Preheat oven to 425 degrees and coat two baking sheet pans with cooking spray. 
2. Cut peppers in half lengthwise and remove the pocket of seeds. (You may leave the stems on or off but they are not edible.) Place the peppers cut-sides down on the prepared pans; bake 10 minutes, then rotate top to bottom and front to back and cook 10 minutes longer, until some of the peppers are lightly browned. 
3. Heat the olive oil and garlic together over medium and cook until the garlic is lightly browned around the edges; toss the oil and garlic with the peppers. Makes 8 servings. 
Nutritional analysis for each serving: 56 calories, 1 g protein, 6 g carbohydrates, 2 g fiber, 4 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 4 g sodium 
 Lamb Shanks Braised in Tomato and Red Wine 
(Recipe can be halved) 
12 lamb shanks (about 14 to 15 pounds) 
2 teaspoons salt 
1 teaspoon black pepper 
3 tablespoons olive oil, divided 
6 cloves garlic, minced 
2 ribs celery, chopped 
2 teaspoons dried basil 
2 teaspoons dried oregano 
2 teaspoons fennel seeds 
2 (28-ounce cans) crushed tomato 
2 cups red wine 
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. 
2. Season the lamb on all sides with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat; add 4 shanks and brown on all sides, turning often. Transfer to a large roasting pan and repeat with remaining oil and shanks. 
3. Add the garlic, celery, basil, oregano and fennel seeds to the skillet and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the tomatoes and wine and cook, stirring to scrape up bits from the pan surface. Simmer 2 to 3 minutes until vegetables are somewhat softened. Pour over the lamb; cover the roasting pan with foil. 
4. Roast until meat is very tender, about 2 hours. Transfer lamb to a platter and skim fat from the sauce. (To remove the maximum amount of fat, refrigerate the sauce and allow the fat to rise and solidify.) 
5. To reheat, place the shanks back in the sauce and warm in the oven for 15 to 20 minutes. Makes 12 servings. 
Nutritional analysis for each serving: 551 calories, 54 g protein, 12 g carbohydrates, 3 g fiber, 28 g fat, 11 g saturated fat, 700 mg sodium 
 Do-Ahead Matzo Balls 
4 large eggs 
1 (4.5-ounce) box matzo ball mix 
1. Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil. 
2. Separate the eggs. Lightly beat the yolks with a fork. Use an electric beater to whip the egg whites to soft peaks. Gently fold the yolks into the whites. Stir matzo ball mix into eggs, working as gently as you can. 
3. Using wet hands, form into 1-inch balls, working the mixture as little as possible. Drop them into the vigorously boiling water, cover the pot, reduce heat to simmer and cook 30 minutes. 
4. Use a slotted spoon to transfer to a tray and let cool. Cover with plastic wrap and freeze. When solidly frozen, transfer to a freezer-proof plastic bag. 
5. To serve, thaw matzo balls and add to chicken soup 5 to 10 minutes before serving. Makes 10 servings, 30 to 32 matzo balls 
Nutritional analysis for each serving: 65 calories, 3 g protein, 8 g carbohydrates, 1 g fiber, 2 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 1,204 mg sodium

FDMARGE14.WEB

3 Simple Passover dishes

TIP: Matzo farfel is nothing more than broken-up matzo. To make your own, simply break matzo boards into 1/4- to 1/2-inch pieces. 
ARTICHOKE, CARAMELIZED ONION AND PARSLEY KUGEL 
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 
4 cups chopped onion 
1 teaspoon dried thyme 
1 teaspoon salt, divided 
16 ounces frozen artichokes, thawed 
2 cups parsley, chopped 
4 cups matzo farfel 
6 large eggs, lightly beaten 
1 cup vegetable (or chicken) broth 
1. Coat 11-by-7-inch baking dish with cooking spray and preheat the oven to 350 degrees. 
2. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onions, thyme and 1/2 teaspoon of the salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are deeply golden, about 23 to 25 minutes. (May be done up to a day ahead and kept refrigerated). 
3. Meanwhile, combine the artichokes, parsley, farfel, and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt in a large bowl. Stir in the eggs, broth and onions. Transfer to the prepared baking dish and cover with foil and bake 30 minutes. Uncover and bake another 20 minutes or until firm but not completely dry in the center. Makes 8 servings. 
Nutritional analysis for each serving: 271 calories, 10 g protein, 42 g carbohydrates, 5 g fiber, 8 g fat, 2 g saturated fat, 445 mg sodium 
------ 
<h4>GRANDMA JENNIE'S DO-AHEAD MATZO BALLS</h4> 
2 large eggs 
1/2 cup matzo meal 
Pinch each of salt and pepper 
1 chicken bouillon cube or packet 
1. Separate eggs; lightly beat the yolks and set aside. 
2. Beat the whites until they just hold their shape (soft peaks) but do not appear dry. Fold the yolks into the whites and beat until still. Fold the matzo meal in a little at a time and add the salt and pepper. 
3. Fill a large pot halfway with water; add the bouillon and bring to a boil. 
4. Wet your hands and roll 1 teaspoon of the mixture to form each matzo ball, working it as little as possible. Drop the balls into the boiling water; reduce heat, cover leaving the lid slightly ajar, and simmer 30 minutes. 
5. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the matzo balls to a baking sheet pan. Let cool 5 minutes and drape loosely with plastic wrap. Let cool completely and wrap them very well right on the baking sheet; freeze. 
6. Thaw completely before cooking and add to the hot soup 5 to 7 minutes before serving, or until heated through. Makes about 15 matzo balls. 
Nutritional analysis for each matzo ball: 29 calories, 1 g protein, 4 g carbohydrates, 0 g fiber, 1 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 84 mg sodium 
------ 
<h4>DARK CHOCOLATE PISTACHIO MATZOS</h4> 
4 squares/boards matzo 
4 ounces dark chocolate (47 percent or more cacao content), melted 
1/2 cup coarsely chopped pistachios 
1 teaspoon coarse sea salt (or to taste) 
1. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and place the matzos in a single layer on the pan. 
2. Spoon the chocolate over each matzo and spread it to the edges (with the back of the spoon or a small spatula). Immediately sprinkle with the pistachios and sea salt. Refrigerate until the chocolate is set. Break into pieces as desired. Makes 16 servings. 
Nutritional analysis for each serving: 90 calories, 2 g protein, 12 g carbohydrates, 1 g fiber, 4 g fat, 2 g saturated fat, 121 mg sodium

FDMARGE25.WEB

3 Simple matzo dishes

It's not easy during Passover, the holiday during which the Jewish baker must give up wheat flour (as well as spelt, barley, oats, and rye) and still strive to produce desserts worthy of commemorating the Exodus. No wonder so many people decline the challenge, choosing instead to serve boxes of marshmallow twists and jelly rings at the end of the ritual feast. 
Until I went to cooking school, my Passover food memories were dominated by my mother's superb chopped liver and my great grandmother's legendary gefilte fish. The dry spongecakes and sticky-sweet almond meringues that came after the meal were instantly forgettable, even if they cost my grandparents an arm and a leg at the Upper East Side kosher bakery where they stopped on their way to our seder at my Aunt Phyllis' and Uncle Morrie's house in Great Neck. 
As an aspiring pastry chef in the 1990s, I volunteered to relieve my grandparents of their obligation and prepare the Passover dessert myself. 
The first year, I kept it simple. Using unsweetened coconut from the natural foods store, egg whites, sugar and a pinch of salt, I baked light, fresh-tasting coconut macaroons that opened my eyes to Passover's last-course possibilities. 
The next year, my rich chocolate mousse cake was almost too good for Passover. It had the effect of transporting my family to a Parisian bistro, obliterating all thoughts of the deprivations our forebears suffered during their flight from Egypt. Like the coconut macaroons, this was a flourless dessert I'd gladly serve year-round. 
A few requests for "real" cake prompted me to buy my first box of matzo cake meal to use in place of flour. I didn't love the distinctive flavor that this product lent to baked goods when used in large quantities. So I stuck with sponge cake recipes because, compared to other types of cake recipes, they employed the smallest amount of the stuff. I realized that a sponge cake could be delicious if flavored with citrus zest, cocoa, espresso powder or spices. To combat dryness, I always made sure to serve it with a complementary fruit salad or sorbet. 
New this year is a Passover fruit crisp. After disappointment with a tasteless topping made of crushed matzo, brown sugar, nuts and margarine, I had success with coconut and macadamia nut macaroon crumbs, which remained wonderfully flavorful and chewy while browning beautifully on top of a dish of sour cherries. I can't wait to find out what everyone (we are an opinionated bunch) thinks. 
I am hardly an expert on the more arcane rules of kosher baking (it's best to consult your rabbi, rather than your Newsday food columnist, with questions about the kosher-for-Passover status of questionable ingredients such as corn syrup and peanuts), but here are a few guidelines I follow to make desserts that are both good to eat and approved for Passover consumption: 
1. UNDERSTAND PASSOVER LEAVENERS 
The prohibition on leavened baked goods can be confusing, but the bottom line is that baked goods raised via fermentation (i.e. yeasted baked goods) are the ones that aren't allowed during the holiday. Baked goods leavened with whipped eggs and/or egg whites or with chemical leaveners such as baking soda and kosher-for-passover baking powder (which, unlike regular baking powder, contains no cornstarch) are perfectly acceptable. 
2. STOCK UP ON EGGS 
During the rest of the year, gluten-rich flour gives most baked goods their structure. Since flour can't be used during Passover, abundant eggs often provide the protein necessary to give holiday cakes and cookies some shape. 
3. CHOOSE THE RIGHT FAT 
Butter can be used in Passover desserts as part of a dairy meal. For a meat meal, use kosher-for-Passover margarine, since almost all other margarine contains soy, which is one of the foods generally avoided. Many oils are permissible for Passover, including safflower, walnut, vegetable and olive oils. Canola and corn oils are generally not. 
4. RELY ON CHOCOLATE 
Chocolate is the Passover baker's best friend. Unsweetened and semisweet kosher chocolate (which don't contain dairy solids, a necessity unless you are serving a meatless meal) can be used to make flourless chocolate cakes, brownies and chocolate icings and frostings. Unsweetened cocoa powder can be used to make chocolate-meringue cookies and macaroons. 
5. INDULGE IN NUTS AND COCONUT 
Traditionally, bakers rely on nuts and coconut during Passover to lend richness and flavor to desserts. 
6. ADD NATURAL FLAVORS 
Vanilla and other flavor extracts (which are made with non-kosher-for-Passover alcohol) are forbidden during Passover. Although kosher-for-Passover vanilla extract is becoming more widely available, it isn't easy to find. But you can always use the seeds from a real vanilla bean to flavor Passover desserts. Citrus zest is another natural way to add flavor to Passover desserts. 
7. DON'T FORGET FRUIT AND FRUIT SAUCES: 
To combat the potential dryness of a sponge cake or balance the over-the-top richness of a nut torte or flourless chocolate cake, serve a fruit salad, compote or sauce as an accompaniment. 
&nbsp; 
&nbsp; 
<h4>CITRUS SPONGECAKE WITH TROPICAL FRUIT</h4> 
&nbsp; 
If you can't find matzo cake meal (sometimes my supermarket doesn't carry it), you can finely grind 1/3 cup of regular matzo meal in a food processor. An ungreased angel food cake pan is essential for a high rise. As the cake bakes, the batter will grip the sides of the pan and rise high (the cake will have much more trouble rising in a greased pan). By cooling the cake upside down, you use gravity to prevent it from collapsing. 
For cake 
1/3 cup matzo cake meal 
1/2 cup potato starch 
9 large eggs, separated 
1 cup sugar 
2 teaspoons finely grated orange zest 
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest 
1/2 teaspoon finely grated lime zest 
1 1/2 tablespoons orange juice 
1/4 teaspoon salt 
For fruit salad 
3 cups diced golden pineapple 
2 kiwis, peeled and thinly sliced 
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger 
2 tablespoons lime juice 
2 tablespoons sugar 
1. Make cake: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Whisk together matzo cake meal and potato starch in a medium bowl. 
2. Combine yolks and 3/4 cup sugar in a large mixing bowl and use an electric mixer to beat on high until pale and thick, about 5 minutes. Stir in orange zest, lemon zest, lime zest and orange juice. 
3. In a clean bowl, beat the egg whites and salt with an electric mixer until foamy. With mixer on high, add remaining 1/4 cup sugar in a slow, steady stream and continue to beat until whites just hold stiff peaks. 
4. Fold matzo cake meal mixture into yolk mixture, and then gently fold whites in, in three separate additions. Scrape into an ungreased 2-piece angel food cake pan. 
5. Bake 15 minutes, turn heat down to 325, and continue to bake until center is springy, 35 to 45 minutes longer. Remove from oven. If pan has feet, invert onto a heatproof surface and allow it to cool completely. (If pan doesn't have feet, invert 4 drinking glasses on counter and rest inverted pan on top of glasses to allow air to circulate underneath cake while it cools.) 
6. Make fruit salad: Combine pineapple, kiwi, ginger, lime juice and sugar in a medium bowl and let stand, stirring occasionally to dissolve sugar. 
7. To serve: Run paring knife around edges of cake. Run paring knife under cake. Slide it off removable bottom and onto serving platter. Slice and serve with fruit salad. Makes 8 servings. 
&nbsp; 
&nbsp; 
<h4>SOUR CHERRY CRISP WITH COCONUT AND MACADAMIA NUT TOPPING</h4> 
&nbsp; 
Crispy-chewy macaroons make a perfect topping for this simple crisp. A little bit of dry red Passover wine along with cherry juice gives the filling wonderful flavor. Alternatively, leave the wine out and use 1½ cups reserved cherry juice instead. 
For Topping 
6 tablespoons sugar 
2 large egg whites 
1 1/2 cups unsweetened coconut 
1/2 cup coarsely chopped macadamia nuts 
1/2 teaspoon kosher-for-Passover vanilla extract or seeds from 1/2 vanilla bean 
Pinch salt 
For Filling 
2 (24-ounce) jars sour cherries, drained (about 4 cups), 1 cup juice reserved 
1/3 cup sugar 
2 tablespoons potato starch 
1/2 cup dry red kosher-for-Passover wine 
1. Make topping: Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Combine sugar, egg whites, coconut, nuts, vanilla or vanilla bean seeds and salt in a medium bowl. Spread mixture in an even 1/2-inch-thick layer on prepared baking sheet and bake until firm and light golden, 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool on baking sheet. 
2. Make filling: Spread cherries in an even layer over bottom of an 8-inch square baking dish. Whisk together sugar and potato starch in a small saucepan. Whisk in reserved cherry juice and wine and bring to a simmer over medium heat, whisking, until thickened, about 5 minutes. Pour syrup over cherries. 
3. Crumble coconut mixture over cherries. Bake until fruit is bubbling and topping is golden brown, about 10 minutes. Let cool to room temperature and serve. Makes 6 to 8 servings. 
&nbsp; 
&nbsp; 
<h4>FLOURLESS CHOCOLATE CAKE WITH RASPBERRY SAUCE</h4> 
&nbsp; 
If you are looking for a Passover dessert that is simple to make, can be prepared up to a week in advance and delivers pure chocolate decadence, this recipe is for you. The raspberry sauce to accompany it, made with a bag of frozen raspberries, a bit of sugar and a spoonful of lemon juice, couldn't be easier. If you'd like, you could also add a dollop of whipped cream or nondairy whipped topping to each serving. 
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter or margarine, plus more for greasing pan 
1 pound bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped 
8 large eggs, lightly beaten 
1/2 teaspoon kosher-for-Passover vanilla extract (optional) 
1/4 teaspoon salt 
1 (12-ounce) bag frozen raspberries, thawed 
1/4 cup sugar 
1 teaspoon lemon juice 
1. Place a large roasting pan on middle rack of oven and pour in 1/2 inch of very hot tap water. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. 
2. Grease bottom and sides of 9-inch springform pan, line with parchment paper and grease parchment. Place pan on a sheet of heavy-duty aluminum foil and mold foil to sides, but not over top, of pan to prevent water from seeping in. 
3. Put 1 inch of water in bottom of double boiler or large saucepan and bring to a bare simmer. Combine butter or margarine and chocolate in top of double boiler or in a stainless steel bowl big enough to rest on top of saucepan and place on top of simmering water. Heat, whisking occasionally, until completely melted. Set aside to cool slightly. 
4. Whisk eggs, vanilla (if using) and salt into chocolate mixture until well combined. Scrape batter into prepared pan. Carefully place pan into roasting pan of hot water and bake until set around the edges but still a little loose in center, 40 to 45 minutes. Carefully lift pan from water and let cool on a wire rack. Cover cake, still in pan, with plastic (make sure plastic wrap doesn't touch surface of cake) and refrigerate overnight or up to 1 week. 
5. Make raspberry sauce: Combine raspberries, sugar and lemon juice in work bowl of food processor, and process until smooth. Press through a fine strainer and into a bowl. Discard seeds. 
6. Run a sharp paring knife around edge of springform pan, remove pan sides, invert cake onto a sheet of wax paper, peel away parchment and reinvert onto serving platter. Slice and serve with raspberry sauce. Makes 8 servings. 
&nbsp; 
&nbsp; 
<h4>FLOURLESS ALMOND TORTE WITH APRICOT COMPOTE</h4> 
&nbsp; 
When making this dense and delicious torte, be careful not to overbeat the egg whites (they should just form very soft, not stiff, peaks) or the cake may sink in the center as it cools. A whole vanilla bean (half for the cake batter, half for the compote) adds wonderful flavor, but a little kosher-for-Passover vanilla extract (use 1/2 teaspoon in the cake and stir 1/2 teaspoon into the cooked apricots) can be substituted if you like. To decorate, sift some kosher-for-Passover confectioners' sugar (which contains potato starch rather than cornstarch) over the cake just before serving. 
For cake 
2 1/2 cups (10 ounces) blanched slivered almonds 
1 1/2 cups sugar 
7 eggs 
1/4 teaspoon salt 
1/2 vanilla bean 
For compote 
2 cups water 
1/4 cup sugar 
2 cups (about 40) dried apricots, coarsely chopped 
2 bay leaves 
1/2 vanilla bean 
1. Make cake: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Spray a 9-inch springform pan with nonstick cooking spray and line bottom with parchment. Spray parchment with cooking spray. 
2. Combine almonds and sugar in work bowl of food processor and process until finely ground. 
3. Separate 4 of the eggs, placing yolks in a large mixing bowl and whites in another large mixing bowl. Add remaining 3 eggs, salt and seeds from vanilla bean half to bowl with yolks. Whisk until smooth. Stir in almond and sugar mixture until smooth. 
4. Use an electric mixer to whip reserved whites until very floppy peaks just form. Gently fold into batter. Scrape batter into prepared pan and smooth top with a spatula. Bake until a skewer inserted into center comes out clean, 45 to 50 minutes. Check on cake after 35 minutes. If it is browning too quickly, loosely tent with foil for final 10 to 15 minutes. Run a paring knife around the edges of the cake, but cool it completely in pan on wire rack. 
5. Make compote: Combine water and sugar in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat. Lower heat and simmer until thickened slightly, about 5 minutes. Stir in apricots, bay leaves and vanilla bean half and continue to cook for another 5 minutes. Remove from heat, scrape into a bowl, and let cool to room temperature. Remove and discard bay leaves and vanilla bean half. 
6. To serve, release cake from sides of springform pan, slice and serve with compote on the side. Makes 8 servings. 
&nbsp; 
&nbsp; 
<h4>CHOCOLATE-TOFFEE MATZO BARK</h4> 
&nbsp; 
During the rest of the year, I make this irresistible bark with Saltines, but for Passover I use lightly salted matzo. The salt on the crackers contrasts brilliantly with the sweetness of the caramel and chocolate. 
5 lightly salted whole matzo crackers 
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter or margarine 
1 cup packed dark brown sugar 
6 ounces bittersweet chocolate, melted 
2/3 cup finely chopped toasted pecans, almonds or walnuts 
1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Line a rimmed baking sheet with heavy-duty foil and lightly spray the foil with nonstick cooking spray. Arrange matzo on sheet, breaking them into pieces as necessary to fit in a single layer. 
2. Melt butter in a heavy saucepan over medium-high heat. Add sugar and bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. Turn the heat to low and simmer for 3 minutes. Pour the mixture over the matzo and spread to the edges of the pan with a spatula. 
3. Place the baking sheet in the oven and bake for 5 minutes. Transfer the sheet to the wire rack and drizzle chocolate over caramel. Sprinkle with nuts. Cool completely and break into pieces. Chocolate-toffee matzo bark will keep in an airtight container for up to 1 week. Makes 10 to 12 servings. 
&nbsp; 
&nbsp; 
<h4>CLASSIC COCONUT MACAROONS</h4> 
&nbsp; 
Unsweetened coconut produces fluffy, not-too-sweet macaroons. Look for it in the natural foods section of the supermarket. 
3/4 cup sugar 
2 1/2 cups unsweetened coconut 
2 large egg whites 
1 teaspoon kosher-for-Passover vanilla extract (optional) 
1/8 teaspoon salt 
1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. 
2. Combine sugar, coconut, egg whites, vanilla (if using) and salt in a medium mixing bowl and mix with a rubber spatula. 
3. Drop the batter by heaping tablespoonfuls onto prepared baking sheets, and press each cookie into a pyramid shape with your fingers, leaving about 11/2 inches between each cookie. 
4. Bake until golden, about 10 minutes. Slide parchment onto a wire rack and let cookies cool completely. Carefully peel them off parchment paper. Coconut macaroons will keep in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week. Makes about 24 cookies.

FDCOV07.WEB

Passover baking with a modern flair

fdMAINpassover

DIANA PODOLNICK 
A widow, Diana works as a registered nurse and lives in Stony Brook. Her five children and stepchildren are all grown. 
How did you get interested in cooking? 
My grandmother was a wonderful cook who did everything by eye. My mother wasn't much of a cook, so I used to watch my grandmother and try to mimic her. 
What kind of cooking did she do? 
Pure European Jewish food. Dishes that came from what she always called the Old Country - simple, peasant food. But she did it so well. 
Were there other influences on your cooking? 
Yes. I lived in Israel for a while, and I learned Middle Eastern cooking there. Everything is done from scratch there, and I became fascinated by herbs and seasonings whose names I barely knew how to pronounce. I really learned how to cook there. 
When you think of Passover cooking, what are the dishes that come to mind right away? 
Gefilte fish and matzo balls. I make my own gefilte fish. 
Do you usually make a traditional dinner? 
Not really. In my family, the main course is almost always duck a l'orange. It beats chicken. 
How did this recipe for matzo brei come about? 
My family all hates Passover cakes. So traditionally, our desserts are fruit kebabs. This was developed because one of my grandsons loves matzo brei. It's fun because you have to make this then and there - you have to serve it right away. The kids come into the kitchen and help. One grandson likes to put the chocolate chips on top - that's his job. 
Do you watch the Food Network? 
It's my favorite thing. I could sit and watch it 24 hours a day. I think I should do a matzo throwdown with Bobby Flay. He comes up with some southwestern thing, no matter what you do. Ancho chili matzo brei? 
ROCKY ROAD MATZO BREI 1 jumbo egg 2 tablespoons light cream 1 board of matzo 1/4 cup chopped pecans 1/4 cup chopped marshmallows 2 tablespoons chocolate chips 1 tablespoon butter 2 tablespoons shredded coconut 1. Mix together the egg and cream. Break the matzo into small pieces and mix into the egg mixture till matzo is coated and slightly soaked. 2. Melt most of the butter in a small nonstick fry pan. Pour matzo mixture into the pan and let it coat the bottom. Fry until bottom surface is cooked enough to turn over. Slide pancake onto a plate, add remaining butter to pan, and when it melts, flip cake back into pan, unbrowned side down. Immediately place the chocolate on top and cover pan so the chocolate will soften and melt slightly. This will take about 1 minute. 3. Slide pancake onto serving plate and top with chopped pecan and marshmallow mixture. Sprinkle coconut on top. Makes 1 to 2 servings. Orange variation: Omit cream. Add juice of one orange to the egg along with 1/4 teaspoon orange extract. Proceed as above, but instead of topping with pecans, marshmallows, chocolate chips and coconut, spread finished pancake with 1 tablespoon orange marmalade and 1 teaspoon candied orange peel. Serve with a scoop of orange or lemon sorbet. Makes 1 to 2 servings.

LFWHO21.WEB

Passover recipe: rocky road matzo brei

Diana Podolnick

Adding a little water and then covering the pan allows the potatoesto steam before they roast. You can assemble the dish ahead oftime. An hour or so before you plan to serve dinner, put the pan inthe oven -- you may have to excuse yourself from the seder to doso. To keep finished potatoes warm, cover with foil and place in a250-degree oven. 
2 large lemons 
4 pounds small new potatoes (or red-skinned or Yukon gold potatoescut into 1-inch chunks) 
1 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil 
Salt and pepper to taste 
Sprigs of fresh thyme 
1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Cut the ends off each lemon, cut inhalf, lengthwise. With the flat (pulp) side of each half down onthe cutting board, cut lengthwise once, and then crosswise intothin slices. 
2. Place potatoes in roasting pan large enough to accommodate themin one layer. Strew lemon slices over potatoes, then pour in oliveoil and a quarter cup water. Season liberally with salt and pepper.With your hands, or a spatula, mix contents of pan so they are wellintegrated. Place sprigs of fresh thyme on top of potatoes andcover tightly with foil. 
3. Place pan in oven and turn oven down to 375. Bake for 30minutes, then uncover pan and bake until potatoes are tender andbrowned in spots, about 30 minutes more. Makes 8 servings.

ny-food-potatoes-recipe

Lemon-thyme roast potatoes

Kosher wines traditionally see a spike in sales as Passover approaches. 
Many of these wines complement the holiday table, but they're also fine choices year-round. It's all a long way from the days when you'd choose between extra-heavy Malaga and cream white concord. 
Decades later, of course, Manischewitz sells a lot of concord-grape wine, white and red, on the sweet side, and for less than $10. 
If you're preparing the seder meal, there are, however, plenty of other routes. You might prefer a dry wine with the brisket or with a roasted lamb shank and spring vegetables. 
From <a href="/topics/Israel">Israel</a>, consider the 2007 Psagot Edom ($32), a hearty blend that's three-quarters <a href="/topics/Cabernet_Sauvignon">cabernet sauvignon</a>, one-quarter <a href="/topics/Merlot">merlot</a>, and ideal with red meat. The wine has hints of vanilla and spice. 
The 2007 Simi <a href="/topics/Sonoma">Sonoma</a> County <a href="/topics/Zinfandel">Zinfandel</a> ($17) delivers a harvest of fruit and works with beef, too; the 2007 Simi Alexander Valley <a href="/topics/Cabernet_Sauvignon">Cabernet Sauvignon</a> ($20), is right with lamb. 
To go with roast chicken, the options are many. They include the 2007 Carmel Private Collection <a href="/topics/Merlot">Merlot</a> ($18), a fruity red from Galilee; and a very dependable, crisp white, the 2008 Goose Bay Marlborough <a href="/topics/Sauvignon_Blanc">Sauvignon Blanc</a> ($20) from New Zealand.

FDDRINKS25.WEB

Update your wine list for Passover

"Why is this night different from all other nights?" is a famous line in the Haggadah, the Passover seder prayer book. The rabbinical response is that the seder commemorates the liberation of the ancient Hebrews from slavery in Egypt. 
What's unique about Passover is the food. The basic guideline of what to eat or not eat during the holiday derives from a simple principle spelled out&nbsp;in the Torah, which prohibits eating leavened bread during the holiday, to recall the flat bread the Hebrews ate during their flight from Egypt. 
Despite restrictions, Jewish cooks have developed an incredible variety of Passover foods. They don't taste exactly like those made during most of the&nbsp;year, but that is part of the reason they are appreciated. 
Here are some recipes to try: 
SPRINGTIME CHICKEN SOUP WITH ASPARAGUS AND WHOLE-WHEAT MATZO BALLS 
1 1/2 pounds skinless chicken breast pieces, with bones 
1 1/2 pounds skinless chicken thigh or drumstick pieces 
1 large onion, whole or sliced 
1 bay leaf 
3 tablespoons chopped parsley, stems reserved for soup 
4 sprigs fresh thyme or 1/2 teaspoon dried 
About 2 quarts water 
4 medium carrots, peeled and cut in 2-inch lengths (total 3/4 pound) 
Whole-wheat matzo balls (see recipe below) 
1 pound medium-width asparagus, peeled, cut in 1 1/2-inch pieces 
Salt and freshly ground pepper 
1. Thoroughly trim any fat from chicken. Put chicken breast and thigh 
pieces in a large saucepan. Add onion, bay leaf, parsley stems and thyme sprigs (but not dried thyme) and cover ingredients generously with water. Bring to a boil. Skim foam. Cover and cook over low heat for 1 hour. 
2. Add carrots and dried thyme to soup, cover and cook over low heat for 30 minutes. Discard bay leaf and thyme sprigs. Skim fat completely from soup. 
(This is easier to do when soup is cold.) 
3. Remove chicken meat from bones; reserve for other meals or cut in strips and return to soup. 
4. Separately heat matzo balls. Reheat soup, add asparagus and cook over medium-low heat for 7 minutes or until just tender. Add parsley and season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve 2 matzo balls in each bowl. Makes 4 or 5 servings. 
------ 
WHOLE-WHEAT MATZO BALLS 
Carrot and parsley give these matzo balls a lively springtime look. 
1 whole-wheat matzo 
2 large eggs 
1/4 cup matzo meal, more if needed 
1/4 teaspoon salt 
Pinch of pepper 
1/2 cup finely grated carrot (optional) 
1 tablespoon minced parsley (optional) 
1 to 2 tablespoons chicken broth or water 
About 2 quarts salted water (for simmering) 
1. Break matzo in a few pieces into a bowl. Cover with water and soak until soft. Drain well and squeeze dry. 
2. In a small bowl, lightly beat eggs. Add soaked matzo, matzo meal, salt and pepper, and stir with a fork until smooth. Stir in carrot and parsley. Stir in chicken broth, adding enough so mixture is just firm enough to hold&nbsp;together in rough-shaped balls. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes to make matzo balls easier to shape. 
3. Bring salted water to a bare simmer. With wet hands, take about 2 teaspoons of matzo-ball mixture and roll it into a ball between your palms. 
Mixture will be soft; if it is too soft to handle, stir in more matzo meal by spoonfuls until you can shape it. Gently drop matzo ball into simmering water. 
Continue making balls, wetting hands before shaping each one. 
4. Cover and simmer over low heat for 30 minutes. When serving, remove them with a slotted spoon, add them to soup bowls and ladle hot soup over them. 
Makes 18 to 20 small matzo balls, about 4 or 5 servings. 
------ 
FARFEL KUGEL WITH LEEKS, MUSHROOMS, CARROTS 
Bake this kugel as a casserole as in the recipe below, or inside 
1 large or 2 small chickens as a stuffing. 
1 large or 2 medium leeks, white and light green parts 
1 1/2 cups hot chicken or vegetable broth 
5 cups matzo farfel 
4 tablespoons olive oil or vegetable oil 
Salt and freshly ground pepper 
8 ounces mushrooms, sliced 
1 teaspoon paprika, plus a pinch for sprinkling 
2 large carrots, coarsely grated 
Pinch of hot paprika or cayenne pepper 
2 large eggs, beaten 
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Split leeks twice lengthwise and dip them repeatedly in a large bowl of water to rinse. Cut leeks in thin slices. 
2. Pour broth over farfel in a large bowl. Let stand to soften while sauteing leeks. 
3. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet. Add leeks, salt and pepper, and saute over medium heat, stirring often, for 5 minutes. Cover and cook over low heat, stirring often, for 5 minutes or until tender. 
4. Remove from skillet. Add 1 tablespoon oil to skillet, heat briefly, then add mushrooms and paprika. Saute over medium heat for 3 minutes or until&nbsp;tender. Remove from heat and stir in carrots. 
5. Add vegetable mixture to bowl of farfel and let cool. Taste and adjust seasoning. Stir in eggs. 
6. Lightly oil a 2-quart casserole. Spoon stuffing into casserole. 
7. Sprinkle with remaining oil, then with a pinch of paprika. Bake for 45 minutes or until firm. Serve hot or warm. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

FDREC

A Passover classic with a whole-wheat twist

The recipes below may be suitable for your seders or for the many nights of Passover. 
&nbsp; 
1 ONION, PEPPER AND FARFEL FRITTATA 
Serve this as a light main course with a salad, or as a side dish. 
2 tablespoons olive oil 
3 cups chopped red onion 
1/2 teaspoon salt, divided 
1/4 teaspoon black pepper, divided 
Pinch sugar 
1 teaspoon dried thyme 
2 green bell peppers, chopped 
1 red bell pepper, chopped 
8 large eggs 
2 cups regular or whole-wheat matzo farfel 
&nbsp; 
1. Spread 1 tablespoon of oil on the bottom and sides of a 10-inch skillet and heat over medium. Add the onion, 1/4 teaspoon of the salt, 1/8 teaspoonof the black pepper, sugar and thyme. Cook the onions, stirring occasionally,for 8 minutes, or until very soft. Add the green and red bell peppers and cook, again stirring occasionally, 5 minutes longer. 
2. Meanwhile, combine the eggs with the remaining salt and pepper and beat lightly with a fork. Stir in the farfel. 
3. Pour egg mixture into the skillet and stir so the ingredients are evenly distributed. Cook, occasionally separating the mixture as it starts to set toallow uncooked egg on top to seep to the bottom. Cook the egg 13 to 14 minutes, or until it is lightly set. Run a knife or spatula around the edge. 
4. Place a plate over the skillet and invert. (If some of the frittata sticks to the pan surface, simply scrape it out - it won't matter; it getsinverted a second time.) Add the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil to the skillet and allow it to heat up for 15 seconds. Slide the frittata back in and cook another 10 minutes, or until completely set. 
5. Invert the frittata 1 final time onto the serving plate and cut into wedges. Makes 6 servings. 
Nutritional analysis for each serving: 269 calories, 12 g protein, 31g carbohydrates, 3 g fiber, 11 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 282 mg cholesterol, 29 mg sodium 
&nbsp; 
2 VEGETABLE TZIMMES 
&nbsp; 
While tzimmes is traditionally cooked alongside the meat, this one is cooked separately. This recipe may be halved. 
&nbsp; 
3/4 pound sweet potato, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks 
3 carrots, cut on a diagonal into 1-inch pieces 
1 cup pitted prunes 
2 medium onions (about 3/4 pound) cut into eighths lengthwise, then across, 
in half 
3/4 pound white potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks 
1 (28-ounce) can whole plum tomatoes, coarsely chopped 
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon 
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg 
1/4 cup orange juice 
1 teaspoon salt 
&nbsp; 
1. Combine sweet potato, carrots, prunes, onions, white potatoes and canned tomatoes with their juices in a Dutch oven. Toss in the cinnamon, nutmeg,&nbsp;orange juice and salt and place over medium-high heat. As soon as the liquid in the pan bubbles, turn the heat down to low and cover the pot. Cook, stirring&nbsp;occasionally (and lowering the heat or adding a little water if necessary) for&nbsp;1 hour, until the potatoes, carrots and onions are very tender. Makes 12 servings. 
Nutritional analysis for each serving: 111 calories, 2 g protein, 26 g&nbsp;carbohydrates, 3 g fiber, 0g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 g cholesterol, 304 mg sodium 
&nbsp; 
3 COLLAPSED CHOCOLATE TORTE 
&nbsp; 
The key to this outrageous cake is to not overcook it. Because the torte is rich and intense, serve it in small portions. Top with whipped cream or&nbsp;frozen raspberries pureed with sugar. 
&nbsp; 
1 tablespoon powdered cocoa 
1 cup slivered almonds 
8 ounces top-quality bittersweet or semisweet chocolate 
1 1/2 sticks ( 3/4 cup) unsalted butter (or margarine), at room temperature 
1 cup sugar 
4 eggs, separated 
1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Coat a 9-inch springform pan with cooking spray and dust with cocoa. Shake off excess cocoa. 
2. Grind the nuts finely in a food processor. 
3. Melt chocolate in the microwave until about 1/3 of it is creamy. Stir vigorously, then put it back in the microwave for 10 seconds, stir and repeat until chocolate is melted but barely warm to the touch. (This method prevents it from scorching.) 
4. Cream the butter or margarine with an electric mixer until fairly smooth, about 2 minutes. Add sugar and beat again until well blended. With the mixer running on medium speed, add the egg yolks, ground almonds, and&nbsp;chocolate, stopping occasionally to scrape down the sides of the bowl. Transfer mixture to a large bowl. 
5. In a clean, dry mixing bowl, whip the egg whites to stiff peaks. Stir about 1/3 of the egg whites into the chocolate mixture to lighten it, then gently fold in the remaining whites. 
6. Pour batter into the prepared pan and bake in the center of the oven for 45 to 50 minutes. A toothpick inserted in the middle will have a little chocolate clinging to it, but will not be coated. 
7. Let the cake cool in the pan at least 30 minutes. Remove the sides,&nbsp;place a flat serving plate over the top of the cake, and flip it over. Use a&nbsp;long knife to carefully separate the cake from the bottom of the pan and remove. Using another flat plate, flip the cake again. 
8. The cake will collapse and the top crack slightly as it sits. Makes 16 servings. 
Nutritional analysis for each serving: 338 calories, 4 g protein, 23 g carbohydrates, 2 g fiber, 27 g fat, 14 g saturated fat, 99 mg cholesterol, 22&nbsp;mg sodium 
TIP 
Experiment with whole wheat matzo and farfel in your favorite Passover recipes. 
The following Passover dishes can be made in advance.&nbsp; Make these cookies the week before and store tightly covered in a dry place; make the matzo balls a couple of weeks ahead and keep them frozen until Sunday night (at which point transfer them to the refrigerator to thaw); the&nbsp;charoset can be made one day ahead. 
&nbsp; 
4 COCONUT-PECAN MERINGUE COOKIES 
While these are well-suited for Passover, they are also lovely any time you&nbsp;want a sweet, light bite. 
1/2 cup coconut flakes 
1/2 cup shelled pecans, chopped into 1/4-inch pieces 
3 large egg whites 
1 cup sugar 
1. Preheat oven to 275 degrees with 2 racks in the center. 
2. Spread the coconut on half the cookie sheet and the pecans on the other half. (The cookie sheet should be dry, not greased.) Place in the oven and toast until the coconut is lightly browned, about 7 minutes. Remove from oven and transfer coconut and nuts to a plate to cool (they can be combined). 
3. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper or Silpatwhat is this? doesn't seem to be a brand name. 
4. Use an electric beater to whip the egg whites to soft peaks. With the mixer running, slowly add the sugar and continue mixing until the egg whites are&nbsp;glossy and hold their shape. Using a spatula, fold in toasted pecans and coconut when the beater is lifted. 
5. Drop well-rounded teaspoonfuls of batter about 1 inch apart on the cookie&nbsp;sheets. Place in the oven for 15 minutes; remove and rotate the trays and bake 16 to 18 minutes longer, or until the cookies are dry in the center. Makes&nbsp;about 40 cookies. 
Nutritional analysis per serving: Each cookie: 35 calories, 0 protein, 6 g carbohydrates, 0 fiber, 1 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 7 mg&nbsp;sodium 
5 GRANDMA JENNIE'S MATZO BALLS 
Many people claim their grandmothers made the best matzo balls, and I must beg&nbsp;to differ. It was my Grandma Jennie, who passed away last year at age 109, who&nbsp;truly made the best. Try them; you'll see. 
Grandma Jennie, being a very practical woman, realized early on she could make&nbsp;these ahead of time. After cooling the matzo balls on baking sheets, she would&nbsp;wrap them tightly right on the pans and freeze them. Once frozen, the matzo&nbsp;balls were transferred to freezer bags and thawed completely before reheating. 
Whether previously frozen or not, matzo balls should be added to the soup 5 to&nbsp;7 minutes before serving, or until they are heated through. 
2 extra-large eggs 
1/2 cup matzo meal 
1 bouillon cube or packet 
Pinch each of salt and pepper 
1. Separate eggs; lightly beat yolks. 
2. Beat whites until they just hold their shape. (When the beater is raised up from the whites, the peak will hold but it should not appear dry.) 
3. Fold the yolks into the whites, and beat mixture until stiff. Fold the matzo meal in a little at a time, adding a pinch of salt and pepper along the way. 
4. Fill a large soup pot halfway with water; add a chicken bouillon cube or&nbsp;packet and bring to a boil. 
5. Wet your hands and roll 1 teaspoonful of the meal to form each ball. Do not overwork. Drop the balls into the boiling water, reduce the heat to simmer and gently cook for 30 minutes with the lid slightly askew. 
6. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the matzo balls to a baking sheet. Let cool slightly and drape with plastic wrap. Makes about 15 matzo balls. 
Nutritional analysis per matzo ball: 22 calories, 1 g protein, 2 g carbohydrates, 0 fiber, 1 g fat, 32 mg cholesterol, 84 mg sodium 
6 CHAROSET 
This is one fairly traditional version. For a slightly different charoset, 
replace the raisins with chopped dried apricots, figs, dates or any combination of these fruits. Also, bear in mind the yield may vary depending on the size&nbsp;of the apples. 
4 apples, peeled and diced 
2 teaspoons cinnamon 
1 1/2 cups walnuts, chopped into 1/4-inch pieces 
3/4 cup raisins 
1/2 cup golden raisins 
2/3 cup Manischewitz Malaga wine 
Toss the diced apples and cinnamon together. Stir in all the remaining ingredients and let sit, loosely covered, at room temperature for about 30&nbsp;minutes. Taste and add sugar if needed. Cover tightly and refrigerate until&nbsp;ready to serve. Makes about 61/2 cups. 
Nutrional analysis per half cup: 163 calories, 3 g protein, 19 g carbohydrates, 3 g fiber, 9 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 3 mg sodium 
TIP 
Other good do-ahead Passover dishes include chicken soup and brisket, both of which can be made in advance and frozen.

FDSIMP

6 Simple Passover Dishes

This simple dessert, writes Marcy Goldman in her "Treasure of Jewish Holiday Baking" (<a href="/topics/Broadway">Broadway</a>, $17.95) is "a refreshing change from chocolate, nuts and sponge cakes. Substitute cranberries or raspberries for the rhubarb, if you like, for a rosy and tart filling, or substitute apricots (fresh or canned) for a sweeter filling. Almost any combination of fruits will work." 
Crumbled topping 
1 1/2 cups potato starch 
1 cup matzoh meal 
1/3 cup brown sugar 
2 teaspoons sugar or vanilla sugar 
Pinch ground cinnamon 
1/2 teaspoon salt 
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted <a href="/topics/Passover">Passover</a> margarine or unsalted butter 
1/4 cup orange juice 
Apple rhubarb filling 
6 cups peeled and sliced apples 
1 cup coarsely chopped rhubarb 
3/4 cup granulated sugar 
1 teaspoon cinnamon 
1/4 cup orange juice 
2 tablespoons potato starch 
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Generously grease a 9-by-13-inch or 8-by-10-inch rectangular pan, or a 10-inch springform pan. 
2. For the crumbled topping, in a medium bowl, combine the dry ingredients. Cut the margarine or butter into the dry mixture. Stir in the orange juice to make a crumbly topping that just hold together. Set aside. 
3. In a large bowl, toss all the filling ingredients together. Sprinkle half the crumble topping over the bottom of the greased pan, and press very slightly. 
4. Spoon on the fruit filling. Sprinkle the remaining crumble topping over the fruit. Bake until the fruit is bubbling and the top is lightly golden (25 to 35 minutes). Cool well in the pan before serving. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

ny-food-cobbler

Apple Rhubarb Cobbler

Passover recipes and wine suggestions

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Recipe, wine suggestions for Passover

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Newsday food writer Melissa Azofeifa takes a lobster roll taste test at Driftwood on the Long Beach boardwalk.

Trying 3 lobster roll styles in Long Beach

Newsday food writer Erica Marcus helps make a strawberry crunch ice cream at Coyle's Ice Cream in Islip.

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