Shrimp fried rice -- 2 ways

What's easier than a stir-fry? It's tempting to say "nothing," because stir-frying is so versatile and beloved that we all like to think we can do it, even if what we really are doing is tossing around ingredients in a not-hot-enough skillet, then wondering why the results aren't as good as those from the Chinese restaurant.

I used to be one of you. Then, thanks in no small part to cookbook author Grace Young, I bought a carbon-steel wok, seasoned it properly and, over the past couple of years, have become more than merely comfortable with it. I use it several nights a week, so much so that it pretty much lives on my stove top. I fry eggs and bacon in it. I pan-fry chicken breasts in it. I've deep-fried tofu in it.

But mostly, I stir-fry in it, cooking various combinations of proteins, vegetables and aromatics over high heat, scooping and tossing until they're perfect.

Still, everybody needs a refresher course from time to time, so when Young offered to give me a stir-fry lesson connected to her latest book, "Stir-Frying to the Sky's Edge" (Simon & Schuster, 2010), I couldn't say no.

In stir-frying, more so than in other techniques, it's critical to have all of the ingredients measured and ready, because once the cooking starts, it goes quickly.

Preparing the wok is crucial. Young heats it until a drop of water evaporates within a second, then swirls in canola oil."Remember: hot wok, cold oil," Young says. That ensures that the metal expands first, creating an even heating surface over which the oil and food can glide. "If the wok is cold when the oil goes in, things will stick, guaranteed."

Make use of the whole wok. Young stir-fries ginger and garlic for a minute or so, then pushes them up the sides of the wok and makes room for the shrimp, spreading it into one layer without overlapping and letting it sear undisturbed for a full minute. She adds salt and then all of the vegetables (onion, tomato, green bell pepper) and starts stir-frying, using a spatula to scoop and turn over the food as it sizzles in the wok. "You should constantly hear that sizzle, which is telling you all is right with the world," she says.

When Young adds the sauce, she swirls it in around the sides of the wok, rather than into the center of the ingredients, so that it hits hot metal and doesn't bring down the temperature.

It's done in a flash: lightly caramelized shrimp, crisp-tender veggies and a haunting sauce made with dark rum instead of the traditional rice wine.

1 1/2 cups leftover Chinese Trinidadian Stir-Fried Shrimp With Rum (see accompanying recipe)

1 tablespoon peanut or vegetable oil

2 scallions, white and light-green parts, chopped (1/3 cup), or more for optional garnish

1 cup cooked rice

3/4 teaspoon curry powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

Transfer to a plate; sprinkle with additional chopped scallions, if desired. Makes 1 serving.

1 pound large shrimp, peeled and deveined

Freshly squeezed juice of 1/2 lime (1 or 2 teaspoons)

3 tablespoons ketchup

3 tablespoons dark Jamaica rum

2 teaspoons low-sodium soy sauce

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper

2 tablespoons peanut or vegetable oil

3 to 4 medium cloves garlic

1 (2-inch) piece peeled ginger root, minced (1 tablespoon)

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 medium ripe tomato, cut into thin wedges

1 large green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded and cut into thin strips

1 small onion, cut into thin wedges

1 tablespoon finely chopped cilantro leaves