Freeport: Montana's expands

If you’re a fan of ultra thin and crisp-crusted pizza, the “grandma” pizzette (individual pizza) at Montana’s Pizzeria & Restaurant in Freeport may call to you. It did to me.

Montana’s first opened in 1989 as a modest little strip mall spot. The place was recently remodeled and expanded, both in size and menu. These days, there's a full bar, a big dining room plus a party space.

The family operation is co-owned by chef Joe Montana, his brother, Frank (the manager) and his mother, Maria Montana, who still cooks in the kitchen (weekends, she's hostess). Dishes are served both in family style and individual portions.

In addition to that cracker-crusted pizzette, I also enjoyed al dente linguine, which was rife with tiny clams in a subtly garlic-enriched sauce ($14). What could have been better was the “insalata alla Potenza,” ($10) baby arugula with shaved Parmesan in a lemon vinaigrette. The salad was supposed to have cherry tomatoes but pale, hard beefsteak tomato slices were subbed instead. Red onions, not listed in the description, also undermined what should have been an authentically Italian salad.

Good to note: the place does a fine rendition of the classic spaghetti and meatballs ($10).

Montana’s Pizzeria & Restaurant is at 13 Atlantic Ave., Freeport, 516-379-3053, montanapizzeria.com.