Gatsby’s Landing opens in Roslyn

Danai Falcone’s favorite book is “The Great Gatsby,” and the Manhasset resident had long wondered why the F. Scott Fitzgerald novel set on Nassau’s North Shore had not inspired scores of businesses. (A current search turns up only Tre Sorelli at Gatsby’s Hair Salon in Hicksville.)

So when she and her husband, Glenn, took over the pond-side Roslyn restaurant that used to be Bistro Citron (and, briefly thereafter, Salumeria Pomodoro), they named it Gatsby’s Landing, and gave it an elegant, Jazz Age makeover.

It’s Danai Falcone’s first dining venture, but her husband is an old hand. As a partner with Donald Finley, he operated Shipwreck Tavern and the neighboring Adventure Park in Bayville, as well as Jekyll & Hyde Club in Manhattan. He was also involved with Finley’s new Roslyn restaurant, Barto, but said that he is now solely affiliated with Gatsby’s Landing.

The Falcones found themselves a chef with an impressive resume, Juan X. Pareja, who has held leadership positions in the kitchens of Daniel Boulud and Alain Ducasse and who started his career as a line cook at the Garden City Hotel.

Fitzgerald probably wouldn’t know what to make of Pareja’s menu beyond the oysters on the half shell ($18 for half a dozen) and steaks (petit filet, $33, porterhouse for two, $120). There are Mediterranean-inflected New American items such as baby kale salad with walnuts and Pecorino Romano, $17; grilled octopus with chorizo piperade, $22; diver scallops with pickled wild mushrooms, $35 and salmon with braised artichoke barigoule, Castelvetrano olives and Meyer lemon, $29.

Pareja also presents seven ambitious pastas — evidence of his tenure at the Manhattan restaurant A Voce with pasta doyenne Missy Robbins — which include Sicilian busiate (twists) with spicy nduja and tomatoes, $24, and spaghetti alla chittara carbonara with Nueske’s bacon and Parmesan, $24.

The restaurant has been given a thorough overhaul — including the removal of the wall of fake grass in the rear dining room; the four outside tables overlooking Roslyn Pond still have a striking view.

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Gatsby’s Landing is at 1362 Old Northern Blvd., Roslyn, 516-277-2318, gatsbyslanding.com.