Gemelli
Gemelli is a tribute to twin pleasures. There's the very good restaurant, and the very good pork store nearby. You'll be content with the food at both.
Ristorante Gemelli is a beacon in the neighborhood, a building with a Mediterranean cast, soft hues, and big flavors. The cuisine spans the Italian cooking from the rustic and traditional to the molto novello. You'll do well whichever route you take.
Fried calamari: crisp and fine. Baked polenta with mushrooms, just as tasty. Baked eggplant, stuffed with peppers and Gorgonzola, is a delectable alternative to the familiar fillings.
Spaghetti tossed with garlic and olive oil is hard to top for its purity and directness, especially when they spike the oil with anchovies and pepperoncini.
The veal chop is a major-league affair, with a hint of garlic. The pan-seared ribeye steak, with a zesty, mustardy sauce, is sharp competition. The pork chop with vinegar peppers has just the right tartness.
For a lighter turn: snapper cooked in parchment, moist and mild.
Cheesecake and zabaglione are appropriate finales, along with a strong espresso and perhaps a trip to the food shop.
Peter M. Gianotti
