Hemsin Bakery and Restaurant
TURKISH. Since its opening two years ago in a much smaller storefront a block from its new location, Hemsin has built a clientele of loyal customers that includes Turkish immigrants hungry for native dishes, budget-conscious college students living in the neighborhood and gourmands who learned of the place through Gourmet magazine.
The new location, which the restaurant moved into about three months ago, is more spacious than its former digs, and has a cavernous feel, with its soaring ceiling and walls covered with dark green slate tiles. The tables are covered with crisp white linens; hand-woven Turkish rugs and traditional costumes decorate the walls.
To begin your meal, sample some of the many appetizers on the menu. Among the chilled starters, I especially enjoyed the bean salad, which had at least seven different kinds of beans, chopped red peppers, green onions and parsley tossed in a mildly seasoned dressing. The stuffed baby eggplant, roasted then filled with marinated onions, red peppers and pine nuts, also was well-prepared, as was the hummus, a creamy, garlicky dip of ground chickpeas. The stuffed grape leaves, however, were disappointing, with a tough exterior and a bland rice filling.
The round of white bread sprinkled with sesame seeds that accompanied our meal was delicious, with a tender, dense texture and a slightly sour flavor that went well with the appetizers or was enjoyed on its own.
Many of the grilled meats were wonderfully prepared. Although the lamb shish kebab was overcooked and dry, the baby lamb chops were done perfectly, with a smoky flavor, nicely charred edges and rich juices. The chicken shish kebab also was excellent, with a mildly spicy marinade permeating the tender white meat and chunks of grilled tomatoes, onions and green peppers. The chicken adana kebab, ground chicken spiced with red peppers, paprika and other spices, then molded into strips, was tasty, too.
The meats go well with the accompanying white rice and simple salad of romaine lettuce, sliced red and white onions, tomatoes and parsley, sans dressing; but if you'd like a zestier side dish, consider the shepherd salad, a mix of chopped tomatoes, cucumbers, green onions and parsley in a mild vinaigrette.
For a lighter meal, try the pides and lahmacuns, both of which are Turkish-style pizzas. The oval- shaped kashar pide had a chewy crust with a slightly sweet undertone that complemented the mild white cheese topping. For extra flavor, top the cheesy pide with some peppery Turkish sausage. The lahmacun, which skips the cheese, comes with spicy ground lamb and chopped vegetables.
To end our meal, we drank strong cups of sweetened Turkish coffee to accompany a sampling of pastries. The baklava and burma, chopped nuts wrapped in phyllo dough, then soaked with honey syrup, were especially scrumptious.
Reviewed by Rose Kim
July 20, 2001
