2008 -- The flag of Greece

2008 -- The flag of Greece Credit: Handout

The entrance to Kalypsos is meant to evoke the Mediterranean. There are miniatures of the Colosseum and the Eiffel Tower, an oversize glass dreidel, and above all, unfurled as the backdrop, a Greek flag.

It reminded me of the great opening scene in "Patton," in which a huge American banner introduces George C. Scott. You immediately know what it's all about.

Kalypsos' Mediterranean cruise often goes into choppy waters. But there are flavorful choices. Just pick carefully: Good keftedes, or well-seasoned meatballs, paired with tzatziki sauce. Tasty spanakopita, or spinach pie. Respectable horiataki salad, sporting feta and a stuffed grape leaf. The gyro platters, with skewered pork or chicken, also are worth sampling. Skip the dense, chewy moussaka; and the Rubbermaid grilled octopus.  

Yogurt showered with sliced almonds and cherries is the best dessert.

Kalypsos, 1483 Broadway, Hewlett; 516-837-7570.