Il Mulino

 The din is high, the lights are low and neither the crowd nor the waiters can get enough of themselves. Nonetheless, this Long Island branch of a New York City mainstay remains a hot table. The gratis antipasto alone (Parmesan, sausage, sauteed zucchini and garlic bread) is enough to make a meal. Other highlights include the house-made pastas (such as porcini ravioli in truffle-flecked Champagne cream sauce), risotti and delicate Dover sole. Finish with fresh berries and zabaglione. You'll pay through the nose.