Imperial Meat Company review

Imperial Meat Company slices a lot more than beef. The glitzy restaurant has trimmed its menu since opening in October. That's a good idea for an establishment defined by excess.

From the crystal chandeliers above to the wine-cellar windows on the floor, this offspring of the Brighton Beach meat market aggressively overdoes it. In-motion, faux "fireplace" imagery underscores a sense of whimsy or fakery, depending on your viewpoint. The approach may be more suitable for a night spot, which is part of IMC's flashy identity, too.

IMC's design is a mixed affair, with a Warholian image of Dom Pérignon labels competing with a painting advising "Rock 'n roll all night . . . and party . . . every day." The look in general boasts "Notice me!" at almost every turn.

Uneven service contributes to the periodic chaos that's also in the place's personality. The skills of the better managers don't always make it to the maitresse d' or the servers.

Gone are dishes such as pork cheeks with spaetzle and beef consommé with beef ravioli, a white pheasant trio and rabbit confit ragù.

Instead, consider chef Alex Tchernikov's respectable cream of mushroom soup, made with porcini. And try the duck platter for the table: a slab of slate that holds very good rillettes, a savory spread, a rich round of foie gras, and pan-seared foie gras, plus strips of chewy duck prosciutto.

There are light, flavorful lobster-salad sliders, which improve on the dry Kobe beef sliders. Satisfying chicken "lollipops," with a sweet-sour dipping sauce. Oven-roasted pepperoni, however, comes across like a pizza topping gone wrong. The oily rounds aren't saved by their grainy mustard dip. IMC prepares a commendably rich and creamy lobster macaroni-and-cheese. But spaetzle has the texture of toasted bullets.

SEE PHOTOSImperial Meat Company

IMC's excellent filet mignon is velvety, as is the $60 "petit tender Wagyu" cut. But you'll gnaw on the 28-day aged T-bone steak, which also weighs in at $60. The ample, cooked-to-order Kobe beef burger is a comparative bargain at $25. But the lamb platter, which includes a chop, some tenderloin and lamb ribs, is both greasy and overcooked.

Pan-seared roast chicken for two is a skinny, bland affair. Pan-seared striped bass, finished with beurre blanc, is just boring. The pan-seared, extra-large scallops are fine, with parsnip puree and corn salsa.

Dreary "insane Snickers bars," so-so s'mores in a jar, forgettable doughnuts with crème anglaise, flavor-free iced halvah and routine apple strudel all make the gelato sampler soar. There may be more nips and tucks ahead.