On a recent visit, Intermezzo seemed even more on top of its game than when it opened, which was more than a decade ago.

This is a pretty place, if a bit small, with attractive contemporary art work and soft lighting. A wood-fired oven sends forth small individual pizzas, crisp and blistered. The larger oven puts out the more conventional sort of pies, which are also quite good.

Soups, like the tomato-y pasta e fagiole and the rich minestrone, are hearty and soul-warming. Chicken scarpariello - moist, boneless pieces sauteed with potatoes, sausage, peppers, olives, capers and artichoke hearts in a lively tomato-enhanced sauce - was quite delicious. A simple bowl of pasta with a bright marinara accompanied.

Service, which used to be pretentious, is now warm and accommodating. While specials tend to be costlier than regular menu items, they're now listed with prices, as they well should be.

Some restaurants get tired with time. Intermezzo seems to just get better.

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