What brings the art of cooking—and eating—to life? For many, it’s the act of shopping. That is especially true of a place like Long Island, where sushi, kebabs and hummus, for instance, are pretty much considered standard fare. And if you look beyond your local supermarket scene to the Island’s varied international markets, before you know it, you’re off on a culinary adventure. Here are six where you can shop and grab a bite, too. They’re the real deal, whether you are looking for something new and exciting or seeking the flavors of home or heritage.
Nazar
1474 Deer Park Ave., North Babylon | 631-586-2246 | nazarrestaurant.com
Cashier Bihter Caliskur, left, and manager Betul McGrane.at Nazar in North Babylon. Right, the sucuklu pide, Turkish flatbread with cheese and sausage. Credit: Yvonne Albinowski
Long Island’s Turkish community is robust, with markets and restaurants scattered across both counties. Yahya Kayku owns two shops: the airy Angora Food Market in Medford and the more compact Nazar in North Babylon. Both are great spots to find Turkish delight candies, assorted spices, housemade fig jam and various types of olives.
The kitchen at Nazar, which has a smaller menu than that at Angora, has a team of young cooks busy shaping meat into kebabs and grilling them over open fire. Start off with the lahmacun, a flatbread smeared with spicy ground lamb and baked. Tucked underneath the crackly round of bread are fresh tomatoes and raw onion slices you can throw on top for some extra zing. (There’s also sucuklu pide, a sort of pizza.) Then move on to one of the kebab plates, with its white rice, leafy salad and fat hunk of pide bread. The Adana lamb kebab, assertively charred and shiny with fat, is positively primal.
For home or the road: The baklava at the market counter is imported from Turkey and comes in several shapes and varieties. You can’t go wrong.
Hanamaru Japanese Mart
140 Jericho Tpke., Syosset | 516-921-0600 | hanamarumart.us
Over the past few years, this Japanese mainstay has grown into a sizable compound of specialty stores. Perched on a hill above Jericho Turnpike, Hanamaru now boasts separate areas for sake and Asian spirits, stationery and a dazzling array of housewares, as well as a food market that has a ramen shop, Teinei Ya, in the back. It’s the closest thing Long Island has to a Japanese supermarket, but the smaller rooms give it a more intimate feel.
The question here is, what do you do first? Go straight to Teinei Ya, that’s what. It’s hard to go wrong with a bowl of ramen, but pay attention, too, to the udon dishes. The kitsune udon soup, for instance, has a mild, comforting broth that is a smooth vehicle for those plump noodles, which twist and curl as you slurp them. The sweet pouches of tofu floating on top are an extra treat. It’s better to hit the market after you’ve satisfied your hunger, because there are so many interesting items, it’s easy to go overboard amid bagged chips flavored with truffles or shaped into squid balls, Japanese cheesecakes and red-bean pies, even cones of Hokkaido soft-serve. It’s a treasure trove.
Soup at Teinei Ya in Hanamaru Japanese Mart in Syosset. Right, the red (spicy) tonkotsu ramen, which includes roasted pork shoulder. Credit: Yvonne Albinowski
For home or the road: The market recently started selling bags of a TikTok-famous Japanese snack that consists of dried baby crabs with a spicy-sweet coating. Often called “baby crab snacks” or “tiny crab snacks,” they are superfishy but kind of addicting.
Geffen Gourmet
407 Mill Rd., Hewlett | 516-791-5000 | thegeffengourmet.com
Coming right up: a laffajoon sandwich from Gitit Malka, co-owner of Geffen Gourmet and Geffen Glatt in Hewlett. Right, clockwise from top: laffajoon, fatoot — stir-fried meat, pita and eggs — and fragrant, flavorful Yemeni chicken soup. Credit: Yvonne Albinowski
The Trader Joe’s in Hewlett may carry a fine selection of dips and spreads, but don’t stop there: Just down the street at this kosher Middle Eastern market, you’ll discover fiery harissa mayo, herbaceous Moroccan carrots, bright pink turnips, deep red matbucha (a tomato and jalapeño garlic dip) and more. The clamshell containers span an entire wall, giving the humble room a blast of color.
The market and bakery, owned by Gitit and Uzi Malka, is also known for its scratch-made falafel sandwiches, which you can eat at one of the tables near the back. But this past summer, the couple opened a café next door called Geffen Glatt, which serves meat dishes from Israel and Yemen, where Gitit’s family hails from. Yemeni soups of chicken or beef are served in golden bowls with puffy pita for dipping. The flatbread called laffa is smeared with ground lamb and topped with pickled vegetables, then rolled up and baked in a clay oven called a taboon. The fatoot, an egg and meat dish with chopped flatbread, is similar to Ashkenazi Jewish matzo brei. The menu descriptions can be a little intimidating, but the friendly staff is happy to help.
For home or the road: The market’s baba ghanoush—a classic eggplant dip that never goes out of style—is incredibly fresh and creamy.
Sapori Del Vallo
111 Milbar Blvd., Farmingdale | 631-242-8900
Walk into Sapori Del Vallo in Farmingdale and you’ll be greeted by the fragrance of freshly baked bread and importer Carmine Biancamano, pictured, or his father, Dominic Biancamano. Right, the pizzas have a supple crust that flops down over your fingers. Credit: Danielle Daly
The father-son duo who are Sapori Del Vallo import Italian specialty foods that include their star product—fresh pasta from Campania packaged in eye-catching seafoam-green bags—and have turned their large, unmarked Farmingdale warehouse into a retail market. It’s fair to say that Italian markets are not a rarity on Long Island, but Italian markets that make great Neapolitan pizza? And have a crooner who comes in a couple of times a week to serenade the dining room? This is the stuff of legend.
So, head to the colorful dining area, called Dom’s (after Dominic Biancamano, who runs the place along with his son Carmine). They pull their own mozzarella, make their own fresh sausage, bake their own bread and put out pizzas with a supple crust that flops down over your fingers. The best pie? The Rustica, with smoked mozzarella, porcini mushrooms and crumbled sausage. For lovers of carbohydrates (as well as lovers of Italian olive oils, cheeses, candies, crackers, even cleaning products), this is a true Long Island pilgrimage.
A variety of dried meats and cheeses and other sundries at Sapori Del Vallo in Farmingdale. Credit: Danielle Daly
For home or the road: The rustic breads behind the counter are good enough to eat by themselves. You may want to buy an extra loaf, just in case.
Armazém Brazil Market
346 Hillside Ave., Williston Park | 516-385-3120 | armazembrazilmarket.com
Clockwise from top: Candies from a popular Brazilian brand; the picanha burger with cheese, lettuce, tomato and caramelized corn and onions and the dining area at Armazém Brazil Market in Williston Park. Credit: Yvonne Albinowski
While Long Island’s winter weather may be the furthest thing from the heat of Copacabana Beach in Rio de Janeiro this time of year, Armazém Brazil Market’s delicacies will transport you to the Southern Hemisphere. Armazém has been on Hillside Avenue for about three years, and owners Gilson Nascimento and Lina Carvalho opened a café within the market around a year ago.
At the market you’ll find everything from Brazilian yerba maté, the leaves of which are used to make an herb tea; to Brazilian lime meat seasoning (used to flavor steaks and other cuts) and pinto beans. Nascimento and Carvalho also carry fresh fruit and one-liter tubs of frozen açaí, the palm fruit that originated in the Amazon. Those with a sweet tooth will discover assorted Brazilian candies and sweet treats.
The café, which comfortably seats about 20 diners, offers a variety of mouthwatering burgers, including their picanha burger. Besides the juicy, tender patty (picanha is a rump cut similar to sirloin), it comes with cheese, lettuce, tomato and caramelized corn and onions. Also on offer: sandwiches such as a ham and cheese panino; toast with either butter or the sweet-savory spread known as Brazilian cream cheese. The assortment of drinks includes agua de coco (coconut water).
The interion at Armazém Brazil Market in Williston Park. Credit: Yvonne Albinowski
For home or the road: The deep-fried Brazilian coxinha (chicken croquette) has a great balance of cheese and chicken.
Super FL Mart
52 Jericho Tpke., Mineola | 516-873-0888 | super-fl-mart.com
It’s hidden from the road, but Super FL Mart, with its staggering selection of produce, seafood, meats, dry goods and frozen dumplings, is Long Island’s most impressive Chinese supermarket. It’s the kind of place you bring a friend to and just wander the aisles while chatting about everything you see. (My idea of a good time.) The selection of jarred condiments alone is stunning.
That said, to the average Western eye, the food court doesn’t look like much, but don’t be fooled. There’s a deli area with hot foods and ingredients to make your own hot pot, and the kitchen back there is banging, especially when it comes to the roast meats. Go all out and order the Beijing duck special ($59.99). A few minutes later, the duck will appear in a disposable aluminum tray, neatly carved into fat pieces, each topped with crispy skin. The to-go (or not to-go) spread comes with hoisin sauce and separate boxes of puffy bao buns and fresh scallions and cucumbers. There’s also a separate bag that holds the duck carcass, which you can take home and use to make a potent duck broth. Yes, this requires a little effort, but whatever soup you’ll come up with will be worth it. The Cantonese noodle soups are awesome here, too, especially when stuffed with curly wheat noodles and strips of juicy barbecue pork.
Roasted-pork noodle soup and the Beijing duck on tender bao buns at Super FL Mart in Mineola. Credit: Yvonne Albinowski
For home or the road: The market has an impressive selection of Asian chips, including tongue-tingling Sichuan peppercorn–chicken flavored Doritos.
How to shop an international market
A good international market is an immersive, authentic shopping experience, a mingling of countless ingredients, products, flavors and aromas. And, happily, it has never been easier to cook from another culture, whether you prefer finding recipes online, at your favorite cooking app or at a bookstore, whether a convenient chain, your local independent shop or a specialized establishment such as Kitchen Arts & Letters (kitchenartsandletters.com). Here is an idiosyncratic, far-from-complete cheat sheet, but it will get you in the groove. And let your eyes be your guide: If something looks appealing, give it a try.
- When shopping, don’t be afraid to ask questions. Odds are, a store employee or another shopper will be delighted to share their favorite brand of chipotles en adobo (just enough smoke, just enough vinegar) or what to do with fresh pea leaves. (Something simple? Toss them with sautéed shiitake mushrooms and serve over soba noodles or rice.) An app such as Google Translate can also be helpful.
- The largest international markets on Long Island are Asian, and even when they are specifically Chinese, Japanese or Korean, they are often pan-Asian in scope—you’ll find Southeast Asian fish sauces and Thai curry pastes, for instance, in addition to the usual provisions. Here, your easiest introduction to a new cuisine lies in the frozen food and refrigerated sections, since these aisles include many boxed prepared foods. Look for various frozen dumplings, buns, spring rolls, fish balls and meatballs (for noodle soups). In the refrigerated section, you’ll find kimchi, pickles, tofu, wonton wrappers and fresh noodles in various sizes and shapes—just what you need for the broth you’ll make with the Beijing duck carcass you carry out of Super FL Mart [link to that write-up?].
- That said, at Latin markets, look for frozen empanadas, croquettes, fruit pulps (perfect for aguas frescas, Mexican coolers; try mixing flavors like watermelon and mamey), for example, and frozen fresh banana leaves, an herbaceous wrapping for tamales (instead of corn husks) or a piece of fish for roasting or grilling. You’ll also find refrigerated fresh corn tortillas, and all manner of cheeses, including fresh queso blanco (great for stuffing, layering, garnishing) and cotija (for crumbling over salads, soups, stews and tacos).
- When it comes to spices and dried herbs, international markets typically have a brisk turnover, so they are likely fresher—i.e., they contain more essential oils, thus are more flavorful and aromatic. (You will also get more bang for your buck.) Star anise, readily available at Asian markets, is fabulous in citrus salads or a pot roast, if nothing else. And if you find yourself curious about using whole spices such as coriander or cumin seeds, you may want to head over to the housewares department for an inexpensive coffee grinder to use as a dedicated spice mill.
- As for condiments, Asian markets, in particular, are known for their vast (and bewildering, to the uninitiated) array of sauces, pastes and so on. Start simple: soy sauce, seasoned rice vinegar, maybe hoisin. For the table, it’s nice to have a chili sauce, perhaps sriracha, chili-garlic or a thicker, paste-like chili crisp.
- Two flavorings you may want in your arsenal are Southeast Asian fish sauce—a pungent elixir rich in umami—and gochujang, a Korean red-pepper paste with a robust yet mellow wallop. These two power ingredients add depth to various Asian dishes, but don’t stop there. Try a little in spaghetti sauce or braised meats, a mayo-based dressing for coleslaw—almost anything, really. You will soon be hooked.
- When it comes to prepared foods, this is where entertaining begins, especially at Middle Eastern or Italian markets. Load your basket with dips and spreads, assorted olives and a block of feta or chunk of Parmigiano-Reggiano. Toss in some bottled grape leaves, bread, a good olive oil for drizzling, some baklava or tiramisu for dessert. Someone else bringing the wine? Great—you’re done.
- Rice is one of the fundamental grains of the world—it feeds more than half the world’s population—and so many international markets devote some serious real estate to it, from 25-pound bags of short-grain sushi rice stacked like sandbags to smaller sacks of basmati, black “Forbidden” rice, jasmine rice, sticky (glutinous) rice, brown rice, red rice, you name it. It’s all enough to make you invest in a rice cooker. Go to housewares.
- The meat and seafood counters at most international markets display an admirable waste-not-want-not ethos and dedication to freshness. A chicken with its feet on will make a deep-flavored, full-bodied broth for soup. Inexpensive pork shoulder is the key to a meltingly tender pernil. The fish that was swimming minutes ago can be cleaned and filleted upon request; fish cheeks, heads and collars are rich and full of flavor.
- An Asian produce department will captivate you with its tables piled high with greens, often in family-size plastic bags—inspiration alone to learn how to stir-fry. A Latin market is a go-to source for plantains both ripe (sweet) and green (used in savory preparations) and sharp, clean-tasting white onions, both an ingredient in and condiment for many Mexican dishes. Here, too, are fresh tomatillos (for salsa or turkey chili); mild, sweet calabaza (a hard squash usually sold in pieces); chayote (slice or grill like zucchini); and jicama (peel and cut into matchsticks for salads). Avocados are typically a steal, as are fresh chilies and, in the fruit department, guavas, papayas and mangos. — Jane Lear
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