Jeff's Seafood & Galley

Ahoy, avast and all hands on deck. At Jeff's Seafood & Galley, a restaurant within a fish store, you're swimming in nauticalia - gulls, ropes, a painted seascape, netting - the works.

What reels me in, though, is the flapping freshness of the fare, adroitly prepared by chef William "Billy Bob" McLellan. It's best to go when McLellan is in the galley; these days, on a Monday, Wednesday, Friday or Saturday.

SMOOTH SAILING

Fathoms above most Manhattan clam chowders I've had is McLellan's hearty stew, made with both chopped and ground clams. Seafood gumbo is a chunky, spicy bowlful; lobster bisque is a veritable elixir of briny sweetness.

I like that the blue claw crab cakes are held together only with mayo and Dijon mustard. And what fish cakes McLellan makes - big chunks of white fish, potato and cabbage lightly bound by egg. I'm hooked, as well, on the clams oreganato.

What else floats my boat? Grilled wild Alaska king salmon with a miso glaze. And a special of moist, flavorsome escolar (white tuna). Grilled swordfish steak with fresh mint gremolata is good, too, if a bit sweet.

I ask what's freshly caught but not on the menu. Tilefish, simply and perfectly grilled. And Atlantic wahoo with a Caribbean glaze - a party on a plate.

Black skillet tuna makes for a fiery treat, topped with a Creole relish. And every component of the seafood linguini (clams, mussels, shrimp and scallops) is served at the precise degree of doneness.

Boulangere potatoes and fresh sauteed string beans accompany entrees one time; another, it's roasted potatoes, carrots and zucchini. All good.

SINK OR SWIM

The grill often imparts a carbonized char to the surface of the fish; I like it but some might not. Also, my linguine with seafood is sprinkled with grated cheese, to me, a no-no.

Want dessert? Not an option. Seating is limited, much of it at high tables. And there's a real shortage of trained help.

Yet, this quirky little place continues to evolve. Proper dinnerware replaces the paper and plastic of months ago. Also, the sushi concession that occupied the rear is gone, replaced with tables.

BOTTOM LINE

If you're angling for fresh, inventively cooked seafood and have the patience of a fisherman, you'll want to drop anchor here.

Reviewed by Joan Reminick, 12/17/08.