Review: Korean Grill in East Northport
Korean Grill doesn't bill itself as a farm-to-table restaurant, but that's really what it is. Owners Kimberly and Richard Sim get so into the details that they grow their own produce and even brew their own makgeolli rice wine for the East Northport eatery.
The focus here is on charcoal grilling. Fans of Korean barbecue know how fun it is to enjoy a meal cooked at your table. But Korean Grill takes it up a notch by using live coals, which are placed inside your table and covered with a wire grill, filling the room with a rustic outdoor aroma. (This passes quickly though, as there are chimneys that come down from the ceiling to suck up the smoke.) The charcoal creates crunch and char, giving those boneless short ribs a more exciting texture. After trying it, regular Korean barbecue seems almost lackluster.
Drawing from a former career in graphic design, Kimberly created a simple décor to complement the solid wooden tables and shiny stainless chimneys. The walls are decorated with calligraphic drawings of figures depicting traditional Korean dances. The restaurant's broad front lawn has been turned into a farm where the Sims harvest their own lettuces, peppers and Korean perilla leaves, and watermelon for dessert.
It’s best to take a group here because the generous portions of charcoal meats hover around $45 each and you’re required to order two varieties. The Five Star Combo is the way to go ($138), as it allows you to try the two tastiest meats on offer, the galbi short ribs and the prime rib-eye, as well as the spicy pork belly.
Every selection comes with an army of banchan side dishes, as well as lettuce and funky ssamjang dipping paste so you can make your own wraps. There is also pillowy steamed egg in a stone bowl and sizzling corn (minus the cheese).
But the menu here is vast and includes noodles and homestyle dishes you'll find at other Long Island Korean restaurants. The couple make a mean bowl of naengmyeon, the cold buckwheat noodle dish that hails from North Korea and is a hit across South Korea as well. In the bibim naengmyeon ($22), noodles are twisted in a spicy sweet chile sauce that's studded with crisp pear and cucumber, with a light broth on the side that you pour over the top and mix.
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