La Viola

Traditional Italian food comes with friendly service at this large restaurant opposite the railroad platform in Cedarhurst.

During the early-to-mid '90s, family-style Italian dining--the sharing of large platters of food designed to feed two or three--was the rage. Times change. These days, only a few Long Island family-style restaurants remain, most of them mini-chains.

La Viola, which has one branch in Syosset and two in Florida, is one such stalwart. Much loved by the large groups of family and friends who gather around circular tables in its warmly old-fashioned dining rooms, the 23-year-old establishment (which has offered family-style meals for at least 10 years) exudes a sense of camaraderie and good times.

For starters, a platter of meaty, garlicky portobello mushrooms atop spinach will satisfy even those who ordinarily eschew mushrooms. Fried calamari, offered with a spicy marinara sauce, is crisp on the outside, tender within. And a tricolor salad is fresh and sprightly.

A generous platter of eggplant parmigiana amounts to a lush, well-executed classic. The same holds true of the penne alla vodka, full-flavored even without meat. Pan-sauteed salmon is fresh, light and not the least bit overwhelmed by the garlic and tomatoes cooked with it. Linguine with white clam sauce features lots of clams and garlic, just as it should.

For dessert, tiramisu is fine but unremarkable, but flourless chocolate cake delights. So does the raspberry cream cake, its filling enhanced by fresh fruit and a shot of booze.

Whatever you do, don't let the waitstaff intimidate you into ordering more food than you want. And make sure your server does not portion out what he brings to the table. The purpose of family style dining is to eat as much or as little as you choose.

Conclude with an espresso. And appreciate those you're dining with.

By Joan Reminick.