Lemonleaf Grill

You can tell a lot about a Thai restaurant by the tom kha gai it serves. The classic coconut milk chicken soup with lime and mushrooms needs just the right balance of flavors. That soup, as well as the restaurant's superior tom yam goong (spicy shrimp soup), can put you in such fine spirits that the restaurant's dark, rather drab appearance, brightened only by glaringly lit photos of Thai dishes, becomes negligible.

Instead of focusing on the walls, concentrate on what's on your plate, like the well-grilled chicken satays with peanut sauce, the skewered poultry moist and flavorsome. Pad thai, a traditional noodle dish made with shrimp and mixed vegetables and topped with ground peanuts, is a standout. You'll also enjoy the subtly spiced green curry with chicken, eggplant, basil and coconut milk. Gai pahd bai ga-prow, spicy basil chicken, showcases Thai basil along with lots of juicy chicken pieces in a chile-laced sauce.

Prices are exceedingly reasonable, portions quite large. While I would hesitate before choosing Lemonleaf Grill for a special celebratory dinner, this modest eatery is just the place for an informal meal before or after shopping or a movie at the mall across the street.

Joan Reminick.