Pan-roasted local striped bass is served on a ragu of...

Pan-roasted local striped bass is served on a ragu of leeks, fingerling potatoes and house-smoked bacon with sweet pea puree and morel confit at The North Fork Table & Inn in Southold. Credit: Randee Daddona

Fresh, local and seasonal are the keywords that apply to New American cooking, which has grown dramatically in the four decades since it originated in the fertile fields and minds of California and its chefs.

It's a cuisine bound by almost no rules and one that has changed tables nationwide for good.

Our critics have selected the 10 best New American restaurants on LI.

App users, click on the link above to view their picks.

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