The LT cheeseburger with Mecox cheddar is served at LT...

The LT cheeseburger with Mecox cheddar is served at LT Burger in the Harbor, located on Main Street in Sag Harbor. Sweet potato fries and ice cream shakes complete the experience.
(July 26, 2010) Credit: Doug Young

It seems a no-brainer that high-profile chef-restaurateur Laurent Tourondel (until recently, the "LT" of BLT Steak, BLT Burger, BLT Market and BLT Fish in Manhattan) would score with a casual-chic new burger spot in downtown Sag Harbor.

I arrive at 11:55 a.m., while the breakfast crowd still lingers over bagels and omelets in the cafe area; the dining room opens promptly at noon. I bide my time on a metal glider swing admiring the handsome horseshoe-shaped bar.

Lunch kicks off with a bowl of neatly fried Horman's dill pickles, from which burst hot piquant juices. A salad of local heirloom tomatoes and arugula gets a salty edge from crisp bacon.

A classic burger topped with Jack cheese is deliciously juicy. Is the pricier Snake River Farm American Kobe better? A bit richer, more velvety, but no more satisfying. I'm less taken with an organic turkey burger, which, while herbal, is a bit dry. A real surprise is how good the spiced tuna burger (actually a tuna steak) turns out.

Major letdown: Fries (sweet potato, waffle and skinny) are the previously frozen sort. This from a native-born Frenchman? Quel dommage.

The "gone bananas" shake (with fresh bananas and dulce de leche ice cream) succeeds in temporarily shaking my world. So, too, does a deeply fudgy brownie a la mode with bourbon sauce.

LT Burger in the Harbor: 62 Main St., Sag Harbor, 631-899-4646,

Top Stories

Newsday LogoSUBSCRIBEUnlimited Digital AccessOnly 25¢for 5 months