Ukrainian dishes a highlight at the new Main Prospect in Southampton
Chicken Kiev with broccoli and pureed potatoes at Main Prospect in Southampton. Credit: Newsday/Scott Vogel
In days of yore — also known as February — it’s a safe bet that many Americans knew Ukraine’s capital city for just one thing, chicken Kiev. In the weeks since, a skirmish has erupted over where its most famous dish was actually invented. Was it Russia in the 18th century? France in the 19th? Ukraine in the 20th? New York in the ’50s? Somewhat remarkably, all seem to have had a hand in creating the iconic fried chicken breast stuffed with butter that we know today.
In short, chicken Kiev is something we could all use a bite of these days, which leads us to Southampton and the friendly, cozy new restaurant Main Prospect, which opened in December. While New American fare is its main focus, chef John Trzcinski added chicken Kiev and four other Ukraine-inspired dishes to the menu for a limited time, even as bartender Brian Tupper has authored a companion cocktail. The Zelenskyy comprises a rye vodka called Ukrainian Heritage, blue curacao, and more; a refreshing cross between the country’s flag and a lemon drop ($18). Main Prospect says that net profits from that and its Ukrainian food (plates start at $38) will go to World Central Kitchen, which is feeding refugees fleeing the country.
Ukrainian borscht is of the red variety, and it’s hard to imagine a heartier bowl of it than Trzcinski’s, a satisfying stew with sizable chunks of beets and potatoes that’s finely finished with rye toast and dill sour cream. His varenyky — you may know them as pierogies — are big and half-moon-shaped just as Ukrainian custom dictates, and bathed in a luscious brown sauce. My chicken Kiev arrived a bit underseasoned, but was a golden, crisp cylinder of juiciness. I didn’t get a chance to try Trzcinski’s most popular special, potato pancakes (deruny) topped with a bit of black caviar, or his cabbage rolls (holubsti) stuffed with a ground pork and beef blend.
For decades, the structure now housing Main Prospect was home to Southampton’s John Duck’s Restaurant, beloved by locals for its homey feeling and affordability, two amenities usually in short supply in the tony enclave.
“It was a signature place for families in Southampton to come,” said Sean Curneen, who co-owns Main Prospect with Binh Douglas. “After that it was a catering hall. We really wanted to turn it back into a neighborhood place.”
A place for local folks that doesn’t ignore folks far distant, that is. “For Ukraine, it’s the least we could do,” said Curneen.
Main Prospect is at 15 Prospect St. in Southampton, 631-353-3156, mainprospectsh.com. Opening hours are Thursday from 3 p.m. to 10 p.m., Friday from 3 p.m. to midnight, Saturday from 11 a.m. to midnight, and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Closed Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday.
Newsday writer and restaurant critic Scott Vogel aims for a refreshing, gimlet-eyed take on the Long Island food scene, often while drinking a refreshing gimlet.
