Mama's

Last year, Mama's in Copiague was just another Italian eatery - a little dated, a bit dowdy. Now, after a hi-glam makeover and expansion, it's one of the hottest South Suffolk tables around.

And one of the most economical. On Thursday, the wildly popular "chicken day," you're handed a beeper and told to wait. It's worth it, for a plentiful three-course chicken dinner (salad, a chicken dish, a side of pasta, coffee and cheesecake) for only $12.95. And Monday night, a three-course pasta dinner goes for $9.95. Despite the crowds, the crew remains poised and gracious.

On chicken night, I'm impressed with the lusty chicken pizzaiola, tender cutlets with plum tomatoes, garlic and basil in a marinara sauce. Chicken DiVinci turns out to be boneless breasts with sausage and broccoli in a tomato-tinged sherry-cream sauce, all good. The light, citrusy chicken piccata (white wine, lemon, artichoke hearts and capers) is another winner.

Four of us share a lush "overstuffed" rice ball halved and blanketed with tomato sauce and melted mozzarella; there are leftovers. Baked clams are briny and garlicky, the way I like them.

"Kicked up mac 'n' cheese," chef co-owner Anthony Pinello's bubbling casserole (pasta with spinach, baby shrimp, Cheddar cream sauce and bacon-topped with toasted bread crumbs) is wickedly good, enough to feed a family.

Italian cheesecake proves light and creamy, as does the tiramisu.

MAMA MIA

The reasonably priced wine list isn't bad, just boring. The same holds for the gratis green salad. I'm let down by chewy grilled calamari and house-made pappardelle (ribbon noodles also used for lasagna) that are thick and gummy. A shame, because the accompanying boscaiola sauce (caramelized onions, porcini mushrooms, San Marzano tomatoes and truffle oil) has such aromatic élan.

A tender and juicy flatiron steak special is drowning in a demiglacé sauce, something a friend made a point of asking the chef to go easy with.

And why the dollop of commercial whipped topping with such fine tiramisu? There ought to be laws.

BOTTOM LINE

Overall, Mama's got the right touch. A little fine-tuning should complete her makeover.

Reviewed by Joan Reminick, 5/13/09.