Mithaas in Hicksville, a bright Indian-food cafe next to Apna Bazar, has an encyclopedic menu that cinches together foods from across India. Start with a dosa and end with a creamy mango lassi for dessert.

Credit: Yvonne Albinowski

Mithaas in Hicksville's onion rava masala dosa, as big as your arm, collapses into glistening sheaths as you rip it apart. The coriander and minced onion barely visible in its folds offer mini punches of flavor. 

Credit: Yvonne Albinowski

Mithaas is in Kundan Galleria in Hicksville, a bustling complex anchored by the Indian supermarket Apna Bazar.

Credit: Yvonne Albinowski

The interior of Mithaas in Hicksville, where you order at the counter and dishes are delivered to your table as they're ready.

Credit: Yvonne Albinowski

A standout at Mithaas in Hicksville is the sev puri dahi puri, filled with a spiced potato mash, slathered in yogurt and tamarind chutney, dotted with mint and pomegranate seeds and showered with the shredded chickpea threads called sev. Crunchy, squishy, sour, sweet, hot — it’s a circus in your mouth.

Credit: Yvonne Albinowski

Mooli paratha, a peppery Punjabi flatbread with grated radishes inside, at Mithaas in Hicksville.

Credit: Yvonne Albinowski

Tandoori paneer tikka -- triangles of sour, firm cheese slathered in a red chili sauce --  arrives sizzling on a cast-iron platter atop shredded cabbage and onions at Mithaas in Hicksville.

Credit: Yvonne Albinowski

Arul Depan Gomez, chef at Mithaas in Hicksville.

Credit: Yvonne Albinowski

Deepak Mehta, owner and manager of Mithaas in Hicksville, in front of glass cases loaded with Indian sweets.

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