Momo Express food truck rolls into Hicksville

The momos are multiplying: Following this summer's launch of a food truck serving New Delhi-style momos in Hicksville, there's another new truck in town. The Momo Express is perched next to the Redemption King recycling center on Woodbury Road. 

Owner Muskan Gaba said she opened her truck after the original Momo Stop food truck moved less than a mile away to a new spot on Bethpage Road. Customers were coming into her recycling center, she said, asking for the spicy South Asian dumplings. Gaba comes from a food service family — her grandfather owned five Indian restaurants in Tennessee — but has a background in health care.

Her menu is slightly different, and also very small. There are tandoori momos with a brilliantly green mint chutney; butter chicken momos ($15), which Gaba says she tried at a restaurant in Toronto. The large, meaty momos become totally immersed in the rich tomato curry, and they're delicious, but tend to fall apart. 

But there's also a hard-to-find Indian street food burger that'll knock your socks off. It's called a tikki noodle burger ($10), and Gaba says it's a popular street food in Punjab where her family hails from. It's got a potato-based veggie burger patty that's stacked with a boatload of stir-fried Chinese noodles.

Now, you might think this sounds ridiculous, but something about this street food burger just works. Maybe it's the salty paneer cheese or the spicy chutney mayo that dials the flavor meter to an 11. There's just something so effortless and satisfying about eating a sandwich full of noodles. Especially if you're taking it on the go, because hey, don't you have some recycling to do? 

Momo Express, 88 Woodbury Rd., Hicksville, 516-390-7632, instagram.com/momo.express7. Open 3-10:30 p.m. Wednesday through Monday, closed Tuesday.