National chains that do it right

Here are two specialists.

There's one branch of Legal Sea Foods on Long Island, at Walt Whitman Shops in Huntington Station. It ranks among the more dependable seafood houses in either Nassau or Suffolk.

Reliable choices include the oysters, the lobster roll with celery mayo, fish-and-chips, broiled scrod, New England fried clams, crabcake with mustard sauce, Boston cream pie.

There are enough branches of Five Guys to keep you in burgers and fries east and west, north and south, Nassau and Suffolk.

No fuss here: hamburger, cheeseburger, bacon cheeseburger, smaller versions of all three with unlimited toppings; kosher-style hot dogs, grilled cheese, bulk peanuts and those fries cooked in peanut oil.