Roast salmon with Yukon Gold potatoes, Kalamata olives and lemon...

Roast salmon with Yukon Gold potatoes, Kalamata olives and lemon is a main dish at Noble Kitchen & Cocktails in Oceanside. Credit: Tredd Smith

Oceanside has a new and ambitious spot for food and drink: Noble Kitchen & Cocktails takes over the Lawson Boulevard spot that was most recently Butera’s and, for many years, Lawson Pub.

The front of the house is overseen by Rob DiSanto, a South Shore veteran who used to be a partner at Da Nicola in Hewlett. In the kitchen is the exquisitely named Jonny Manhattan Hancox, a British chef who cooked in London at Soho House and, in Manhattan, at 121 Fulton and Carbone.

Hancox, DiSanto said, married a woman from Lynbrook and found himself looking to open a restaurant nearby. Both he and DiSanto were interested in the same Oceanside property so they decided to join forces.

The partners gave the bar, lounge and dining room a thorough makeover. The restaurant’s concept, DiSanto said, is “to combine a fine-dining experience — quality food, a great room — with a casual price point.”

Among the appetizers: crispy octopus with potatoes and Calabrian chili oil ($14), truffled potato latkes with applesauce ($8), tuna poke with scallions and soy reduction ($13), cider-braised pork belly with fried quail egg ($14), Reuben egg roll ($12). Mains include whole branzino with tapenade ($25), short ribs with burnt leeks and pinot noir risotto ($24) and a burger with pimento cheese and pickled Fresno chilies ($15).

DiSanto was not about to leave pasta off the menu, which features pappardelle Bolognese ($20), fusilli with fennel sausage and wilted dandelion ($19) and squid-ink bucatini with lobster and chili ($25) among others.

3112 Lawson Blvd., Oceanside, 516-600-9500,

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