OSO

The new steak-plus spot is the first major restaurant in the decades-old Southampton Inn, an address no longer simply room-and-bored. Service is earnest, though a bit disorganized. But the friendly staff doesn't shudder at the sight of children, either.

Given the subterranean space, they've done a clean, risk-averse job of decorating, detailing and adding artwork. And, considering the ZIP code, the prices are pretty good, too. Just in case, there's alfresco eating on the patio.

THE SURE ORDER

Dunlop's resume includes stints at Cafe des Artistes in Manhattan and The American Hotel in Sag Harbor. He also was executive chef with the Metropolitan Opera. His high notes here begin with a lobster bisque as deep as local pockets, and a curried, vegetable bisque with a subtle undercurrent of heat to make you appreciate the AC.

The mini-pizza capped with goat cheese, portobello mushrooms, caramelized onions and arugula lightens up the appetizers. Keep green with a peppery arugula salad topped with Parmesan shavings. Sour cherries and mango accent the barbecued duck salad.

The tender, grilled porterhouse steak glistens from a balsamic vinegar reduction; the filet mignon, from black truffle butter. Creamy polenta and cumin broth go with pan-seared, day-boat sea scallops. And the bananas Foster tower is a stand-up sweet, toppling on cue.

STAY AWAY

Three little morels dwarf the now-standard, grilled, slightly chewy, heritage pork chop. Sesame-seared yellowfin tuna is more overexposed than Kim Cattrall. Porcini ravioli in Parmesan-cream sauce arrive stuck in neutral. Mascarpone-lemon cheesecake: dense and dry.

THE BOTTOM LINE

If you're in town, book a table, maybe a room. -- Reviewed by Peter M. Gianotti, 6/19/08.