P.S. Burgers' Paris burger is served on a pretzel roll....

P.S. Burgers' Paris burger is served on a pretzel roll. (April 21, 2012) Credit: Yana Paskova

Small and spare, the new P.S. Burgers in Mineola has the advantage of being ideally situated -- within walking distance of both the Nassau County courts and Winthrop-University Hospital. Despite its name, this is a place where burgers are the focus rather than a postscript.

Co-owners Carmelo Sapuppo and chef Fabricio Strambeck offer a menu as concise as it is affordably priced. You can get freshly ground beef or turkey burgers as well as pre-frozen bison burgers, imported from Canada, and commercial veggie burgers. A compelling array of toppings ups the pleasure quotient.

I found contentment in a bison burger, ordered rare and coming off the grill oozing smoky juices. Mine was done "Paris" style, on a glossy pretzel roll with a fried egg, sauteed spinach, Gruyère and honey-Dijon mustard. A friend's Cheddar cheeseburger was simple and fine. Too bad the accompanying fries were the battered freezer-to-fry-basket variety.

Sweet potato fries, while not house-made, had an addictive toasty quality that paired well with a savory lamb burger special. A moist turkey burger benefitted from avocado and tomatoes, while the fairly generic veggie burger was uplifted by a "Mexico" topping combo of fried jalapeño, avocado, pepper jack cheese and chipotle sauce.

A real surprise was a commendable crabcake -- mostly seafood and spice -- served on a roll and crowned with red onion, pickle, tomato and tartar sauce. Another treat was a foot-long hot dog strewn with bacon, Cheddar, corn kernels and crunchy potato sticks. A fresh baby arugula salad with white beans, shaved pears and crumbled Gorgonzola was sparked by a lemon vinaigrette; it didn't even need its topping of sliced skirt steak.

To drink during or after your meal: A shake made with gelato from Baci in Williston Park -- best ordered without a cap of aerosol whipped cream.

Recently, Sapuppo and Strambeck opened another branch in Manhattan's West Village. There, as in Mineola, you can order online and have your burger, salad or sandwich delivered -- on Long Island, within a five-mile radius -- putting instant gratification a call or mouse click away.

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