The "classic" banh mi at Pho Ye in Oceanside.

The "classic" banh mi at Pho Ye in Oceanside. Credit: Newsday/Erica Marcus

Although it’s still not as ubiquitous as ramen, another Asian noodle soup is gaining ground on Long Island. The latest spot for Vietnamese pho is Pho Ye, which opened in Oceanside in December, serving pho alongside banh mi (Vietnamese heroes), over-rice boxes, salads and rolls both summer (fresh) and spring (fried).

Owner Kevin Chen is an experienced operator who South Shore pho-nuts may remember from Kenko, the Merrick eatery he opened in 2020 (and subsequently sold). Chen, born in Fuzhou in the south of China, came to the United States about 30 years ago and worked for most of that time as a sushi chef. He gradually fell out of love with that pursuit as sushi bars became more and more popular. "There are too many Japanese restaurants, especially here on Long Island. The quality of the fish they use is declining." (And don’t even get him started on All You Can Eat Sushi.)

He was drawn to Vietnamese food because it is "very healthy, with not too much oil." But he is also open to adjusting some dishes for American palates. Noting that most Americans are put off by fish sauce, the fermented condiment that adds a fishy (some would say stinky) note to pho broth, he uses a very small amount. But you’ll find the enormous bowl chock full of meat, rice vermicelli noodles, onions, lime wedges, scallions and heaps of fresh herbs. (Varieties include beef, chicken, pork, shrimp or tofu and range from $14.50 to $16.50.)

"King" pho, with steak, brisket and meatballs, at Pho Ye...

"King" pho, with steak, brisket and meatballs, at Pho Ye in Oceanside. Credit: Newsday/Erica Marcus

The banh mi sandwiches are expertly crafted: Chen pickles matchsticks of carrot and daikon before tucking them into crisp, split rolls with fresh cucumber, mayonnaise, butter and your choice of protein. The "classic" here features a triumvirate of pork products — ham, pate and ground pork — and can be ordered as mild or as spicy as you desire. Banh mis range from $13.75 to $15.75. Fillings (pork, chicken, shrimp, tofu, vegan pork or chicken) can also be ordered in a rice-vermicelli salad ($12.95) or over rice with a side salad, fruit and hard-boiled egg ($13.95).

Summer rolls (cold vermicelli and pickles wrapped in rice paper with shrimp, chicken, fish cake or avocado) are served with the traditional sweet-sour vinegar sauce and the less traditional (but more popular) sweet peanut sauce.

The menu also represents other Asian cuisines, from Chinese pork buns and shrimp shumai to Japanese yakitori and gyoza. To drink, there’s Vietnamese coffee, homemade lemonade and a large selection of bubble tea.

Ken Chen is the owner of Pho Ye in Oceanside.

Ken Chen is the owner of Pho Ye in Oceanside. Credit: Newsday/Erica Marcus

The shop is bright and clean, with seating for about a dozen people and a brisk takeout business. The name, by the way, is a pun: In Chinese "pho ye" means dowager empress, a term of respect for the mother of the monarch.

Pho Ye, 402 Merrick Rd., Oceanside, 516-594-7968, phoyeoceanside.com. Open Tuesday to Sunday 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m., closed Monday.

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