Pierre's

Colorful artwork may remind you of the previous occupant, Lure at the Independent. But the similarities are few. The kitchen now is eclectic, with a dash of Latin, some Italian, snippets of new and traditional American, a cameo of Thai, another of French.

Chilled potato-and-leek soup, the tomato terrine with lobster and the seviche of finfish and shellfish are fine starters.

The best salad stars plump, pan-roasted sea scallops, charred wedges of grapefruit and endive, in a citrus vinaigrette.

Linguine tossed with cockles, littlenecks, and razor clams is sauced with white wine, lemon and garlic, for a tasty variation on the familiar theme.

Oven-roasted halibut with lemon and white wine is a pristine choice. You'll also enjoy filet mignon, thick and velvety, surrounded by crisp and good fries.

For dessert, skip the fancier offerings in favor of a stem glass of Campari-grapefruit sorbet.

Reviewed by Peter M. Gianotti