Sausage pie at Salvatore's in Port Washington.

Sausage pie at Salvatore's in Port Washington. Credit: Erica Marcus

You know what it’s like to be in love with a restaurant? You sit there kvelling while you wait for your order, pointing out its adorable little features to your dining companion. That was me a few nights ago at Salvatore’s:

“You know, mom, there are only a handful of coal-oven pizzerias on the Island. Oh no! You don’t want to order extra cheese; that will ruin the balance of the pizza! See how they roll the pizza dough out with a rolling pin? That’s very unusual. See how they put the takeout pizzas in paper bags? They may get colder quicker than if they were in a box, but at least they won’t steam and get soggy. Of course you can’t just get a slice!!”

And my love did not disappoint. We ordered a large sausage pie and it was perfect. The crisp but pliant crust, no mere wheaten conveyance, was delicious in its own right. The topping was a balanced meld of fresh, milky mozarella and chunky chopped tomatoes puncuated with blobs of crumbled sausage and the night’s green vegetable, fresh basil.

Salvatore’s is at 124 Shore Rd., Port Washington, 516-883-8457.

Newsday Photo / Erica Marcus