Since it opened in 2006, Prime has been one of Huntington's destination restaurants, a big and buoyant sparkler. Gregg Lauletta became executive chef in 2008; he still runs the kitchen and keeps its three-star rating.

Steak and seafood remain the attractions, plus the grand waterfront site, sharp design and perpetual buzz. They could lower the decibels, but maybe that's integral to the experience.

What definitely is: excellent filet mignon, strip steak and the Tellers rib eye, a reference to another eatery from the Bohlsen Restaurant Group, Tellers Chophouse in Islip. Even the "Wellington," the cliche of pastry-encased filet mignon with mushroom duxelles, could make you reconsider this dish. You'll also enjoy the "millennium" lobster, with a flash of spice atop lush mashed potatoes. The house-made Tater Tots are superspuds, too.

Prime periodically adds "road trip" American fare. Recently, Lauletta highlighted California with a delicious spring-onion custard, organic chicken and two fine desserts -- a fig-and-almond tart with mascarpone cream, and an individual lemon-meringue pie.

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