Long Island restaurants near East End apple, pumpkin farms
Ribs served at Townline BBQ in Sagaponack. Credit: Gordon M. Grant
Picking a bushel of apples and hauling pumpkins straight from the field works up an appetite, as does sitting in the car inching along Suffolk's notoriously traffic-clogged roads during fall harvest season. You'll want a place to eat with a crowd-pleasing menu that doesn't require reservations.
Painters’ Restaurant
416 S. Country Rd., Brookhaven
A rollicking place with equally high-spirited fare ranging from the classic (such as marinated skirt steak and iron-skillet roasted chicken) to the extravagant (mango, avocado, pecan and goat cheese salad; and grilled cheese with Buffalo chicken). So-called "genius burgers" bear the names of artists such as Michelangelo, Georgia O’Keeffe and, of course, Francis Bacon. More info: 631-803-8593, paintersrestaurant.com
Sound Avenue Bistro
3225 Sound Ave., Riverhead
With its blue-awning-ed windows and prouda yardarm flagpole, the big, rambling Sound Bistro is unmissable as you travel along Sound Avenue. The former Lobster Roll Northside is one of the only places around to find that Long Island specialty, fried puffer fish tails. You’ll also find lobster rolls, fried fish baskets, local clams and oysters and, in season, soft-shell crabs and lobster-stuffed beefsteak tomatoes. The family-friendly menu features roast chicken, seared tuna, linguine and clam sauce, veal Milanese and much more. A terraced patio offers outdoor dining. More info: 631-381-0519, soundbistroriverhead.com
The local lobster salad beefstake tomato at Sound Avenue Bistro in Riverhead. Credit: Randee Daddona
Husk & Vine Kitchen & Cocktails
655 Middle Country Rd., St. James
The small-plate menu changes every Wednesday inside this spot, where the barroom feels like a stylish roadhouse and the dining room, more formal. Dishes hopscotch around the world, from Asian-style Kobe beef meatballs to tuna poke to a tender Wagyu burger layered with bacon, smoked Cheddar and tomato jam. There’s a lengthy craft beer list, hearty whiskey cocktails and plenty of wine, too. More info: 631-250-9616, huskandvineny.com
Barrow Food House
452 Main Rd., Aquebogue
It's an eatery of high aspirations and distinction at a wallet-friendly price point. The setting is a dramatic one: a rebuilt 1850s farmhouse (the owners live upstairs) with a handsome indoor dining area and a partially shaded picnic table area outside, plus a front porch perfect for dining and drinking. All the dining areas are quaint and cozy, but no reservations are accepted, so get there early. More info: 631-779-3379, barrowfoodhouse.com
The fried chicken thigh sandwich at Barrow Food House in Aquebogue. Credit: Randee Daddona
Cooperage Inn
2218 Sound Ave., Baiting Hollow
This North Fork stalwart is the very model of a rural restaurant, situated across the street from Fox Hollow Farm and next to Baiting Hollow Farm Vineyard. The restaurant’s décor reflects its setting, with a verdant patio, old-fashioned tap room, a "harvest" dining room with a fireplace. The menu blends American standards (homemade potpies, steaks, meat loaf, roast duck) with more contemporary touches and, of course, pasta. Cooperage Inn’s annual fall festival runs every weekend through October, featuring face painting, a hay playground and a petting zoo. Festival menu specials include roasted corn, pulled pork sandwiches, barbecued ribs and chicken and bratwurst. More info: 631-727-8994, cooperageinn.com
Chenza's Twisted Tacos & Market
10560 Main Rd., Mattituck
The new shop, which has indoor and outdoor seating, fills its tortillas with global flavors. There are classic tacos like chicken and beef topped with Cheddar, pico de gallo, lettuce and sour cream, as well as recognizable Mexican specialties including al pastor, carne asada and birria tacos. But there's also a Hawaiian-inspired taco with pulled pork and pineapple; a cheesy Italian taco with chicken, roasted peppers and artichoke hearts; and a bang bang Thai taco with crispy shrimp, guacamole and spicy sauce. A Cuban taco is made from pulled pork, ham, pickles, Swiss cheese and Dijon mustard, while Chinese and Korean tacos are served in bao buns. More info: 631-315-5007, chenzastwistedtacos.com
An assortment of globally inspired tacos at Chenza's Twisted Tacos & Market in Mattituck. Credit: Newsday/Marie Elena Martinez
Modern Snack Bar
628 Main Rd., Aquebogue
Modern Snack Bar in Aquebogue is like a welcoming center on the North Fork, warm and reliable, as it has been since Truman was president. Recommended: fried soft-shell crabs; lobster salad; chicken croquettes; deep-fried flounder sandwich; fried chicken; roast loin of pork with mashed potatoes, sauerkraut and apple sauce; roast turkey with stuffing, gravy and cranberry sauce; meat loaf; New England-style clam chowder; sauerbraten with red cabbage, potato dumplings and gingersnap gravy; and all pies. More info: 631-722-3655, modernsnackbar.com
TownLine BBQ
3593 Montauk Hwy., Sagaponack
The roadside barbecue joint is casual and counter service, making it a perfect turnoff for a quick bite when you've had your fill of agri tainment at nearby Hank's Pumpkintown or The Milk Pail. Smoked meats reign, of course, especially St. Louis-style ribs. Sides, from cornbread to collard greens, are solid. TownLine is the rare BBQ spot that makes its own (and very good) desserts. More info: 631-537-2271, townlinebbq.com
Ribs served at Townline BBQ in Sagaponack. Credit: Gordon M. Grant
Good JuJu's BBQ & Seafood Shack
487 Main Rd., Aquebogue
After six years as Little Lucharitos, Marc LaMaina’s rollicking ode to Mexican cuisine, this roadside shack has been transformed into Good JuJu’s BBQ & Seafood Shack, a family-friendly spot for, well, barbecue and seafood. From the smoker: Brisket, ribs, wings, chicken, pulled pork and chicken. In the manner of those ubiquitous Cajun seafood restaurants, Good Juju’s offers boiled-in-a-plastic-bag shrimp, crab and lobster tail with your choice of sauces. And, rounding out the menu: crabcakes, fried seafood, chili and sandwiches plus a full bar. Good Juju’s accommodates about 16 people inside and almost twice that outside. More info: 631-779-3681, thegoodjujus.com
North Fork Shack
41150 County Rd. 48, Southold
A compelling little spot where the casual vibe belies its culinary ambitions. Follow a local clam chowder with a sandwich of local fish with tomato, arugula and Old Bay aioli, or a wrap of pulled lamb with cucumber yogurt sauce and pickled vegetables. Tacos and tostadas are filled with your choice of pulled chicken, marinated steak, fried fish or Buffalo eggplant. Order at the counter and dine at picnic tables outside. More info: 631-876-5566, thenorthforkshack.com
Buttermilk fried chicken sandwich with chipotle ranch, lettuce, pickles and pepperjack at The North Fork Shack in Southold. Credit: Randee Daddona
Loco Lobster
223 Montauk Hwy., East Moriches
Loco Lobster promises “crazy good seafood” and the new East Moriches restaurant lives up to its motto with a menu of more than 60 items, many of which take lobster in nutty new directions: lobster fries drizzled with Alfredo sauce, lobster pizza with Alfredo or scampi sauce, lobster mac & cheese, lobster mashed potatoes, fried chicken-and-lobster sandwiches, lobster grilled cheese, lobster tacos and quesadillas. Among the tamer lobster items are a straight-ahead lobster roll (hot or cold), lobster bisque and lobster tails. The casual, order-at-the-counter eatery offers seating both inside the high-ceilinged, vaguely industrial space and outside on a landscaped patio. More info: 631-909-3737, locolobsterseafood.com
Little Gull Cafe
54 N. Phillips Ave., Speonk
At this charmer located in a decommissioned train depot, chef-owner Will Pendergast offers homestyle breakfasts and lunches made with truly local ingredients. The dining room offers unobstructed views of the chefs as they make tender, towering buttermilk biscuits, sourdough pancakes, egg sandwiches on thick-cut toast, lobster rolls on homemade buns, greens-and-grains bowls and much more. Don’t leave without dessert, whether it’s a local fruit buckle or Pendergast’s signature pistachio-olive oil Bundt with a tunnel of chocolate. More info: 631-801-2176, littlegullcafe.com
The chocolate-pistachio cake at Little Gull Cafe in Speonk. Credit: Newsday/Erica Marcus
Shinnecock Lobster Factory
42 Montauk Hwy., Southampton
If you’re heading to the Hamptons, it’s worth getting off Route 27 once you cross the Shinnecock Canal. Not only will the scenery improve, but you’ll pass right by Shinnecock Lobster Factory, a collaboration between former Shinnecock tribal leader Lance Gumbs and Sicilian-born chef-caterer Marco Barrila. Lobster rolls here come in guppy, shark and whale sizes and in six varieties, from classic or BLT-style to diablo (with spicy tomato sauce) or “Shinnecock” (with extra-virgin olive oil and lemon). There’s also lobster bisque, lobster salad, lobster tacos … you get the idea. Dine on the porch or at picnic tables on the lawn out back. More info: 631-259-3334, shinnecocklobsterfactory.com
