R.S. Jones

Co-owners Carole Olkoski and Margaret Mueller are the driving forces behind this funky, kitschy Western-themed restaurant where the cuisine ranges from Southwestern to Southern to Cajun to whatever the kitchen feels like doing. Country-western music (live sometimes) fills the room. Most everybody orders from the blackboard menu, which changes daily.

Begin with a rousing bowl of pork chili or a plate of addictive sweet potato pancakes, served with red apple butter.

Marinated steak is a trifle chewy but very good; grilled chicken with a kicky mango mustard sauce gratifies, too. And it's hard to do better than R.S. Jones' pecan-coated catfish with horseradish cream sauce. Accompanying "smashed potatoes" with cream gravy are truly smashing.

Finish with the knockout chocolate pecan pie or one of the house-made fruit pies, served with lots of fresh whipped cream.

Keep in mind that the restaurant only accepts American Express and cash; reservations are only for parties of 6 or more. And remember: nobody counts calories. --Joan Reminick