Gallo, a Colombian restaurant in downtown Patchogue, has doors that...

Gallo, a Colombian restaurant in downtown Patchogue, has doors that open onto the sidewalk. (July 20, 2010) Credit: Doug Young

Hard to believe it, but 10 years ago, Patchogue was a sleepy restaurant town. No longer. Take a look at today's Main Street and you'll see a dining scene as varied as it is sophisticated. Here are just some of the gastronomic attractions you'll find:

PeraBell Food Bar, 114 W. Main St., Patchogue, 631-447-7766, perabellfoodbar.com

FOOD 2.5 stars

COST $$-$$$

The bar may be crowded, the dining space cramped, but PeraBell Food Bar (which will move to the larger Main Street digs of the former Mangia Mangia this fall) is lavish in its attention to food and service. Executive chef and co-owner John Peragine and chef de cuisine Matthew Nelson show off in such New American dishes as ahi tuna and mango tartare, Thai-glazed short ribs as well as pan-roasted salmon with Mediterranean couscous, asparagus and lemon-oregano oil. The mini burgers are house classics.

Bobbique, 70 W. Main St., Patchogue, 631-447-7744, bobbique.com

FOOD 2 stars

COST $$

At chef-owner Eric Rivkin's smokin' spot, live blues pairs well with such offerings as St. Louis ribs, barbecued chicken, pulled pork, sliced brisket and smoked sausage. The mac 'n' cheese is nicely al dente, baked beans a bit sweet but not overly so. Top finales include Lincoln logs (little French toast sticks) and a warm brownie soufflé, to be ordered at the start of a meal.

Gallo, 3 E. Main St., Patchogue, 631-475-4667, gallotropical.com

FOOD 2 stars

COST $$

The menu is Colombian, the vibe upbeat. On warm nights, French doors are thrown open to the breezes and the street. Try the barbecued chicken or the arroz con pollo, a Spanish take on Chinese fried rice. Whatever you do, don't miss the luxurious five-milk flan for dessert.

Lawan Thai, 13 E. Main St., Patchogue, 631-687-1313, www.lawan.biz

FOOD 2 stars

COST $$

The flavors of Thailand rule at this restaurant where a shiny samlor (bicycle-rickshaw) is the decorative centerpiece. Some recommended dishes: boned chicken wings stuffed with ground chicken, vegetables and clear noodles, and red Thai curry with chicken, eggplant and basil.

Public House 49, 49 E. Main St., Patchogue, 631-569-2767, publichouse49.com

FOOD 3 stars

COST $$

This ultramodern gastro pub morphs into a night spot after 10 p.m. Before then, you can indulge in the luxe comforts from chef (and operatic tenor) Richard Desmond. Some proven winners: trio of turnovers, field green salad topped with skewers of grilled pork, roast pork belly and seared scallops with Bing cherry sauce and the satisfying Kobe beef frank on flatbread.

More choices in Patchogue

Brick House Brewery, 67 W. Main St., 631-447-2337, brickhousebrewery.com

In a historic building, beers and ales are brewed. They pair well with a wide-ranging menu that includes raw bar items, salads, sandwiches, burgers, pizzas, fish and chips and steaks. Live entertainment, too.

Delfiore Pizza Co., 75 E. Main St., Patchogue, 631-475-2500

At this ultracasual counter service spot from the family owning the Delfiore Pork Store, you'll find serious pizza from a brick oven whose shelves rotate. Top picks include a garlic knot stuffed with eggplant and roasted pepper, the meatball parm "fazzani" (like a calzone). Try the hand-cut rosemary fries from the well-executed kitchen menu.

Old Olive Tree, 124 E. Main St., 631-654-1930, oldolivetreerestaurant.com

A longtime fixture on the local dining scene for reliable Greek food. Grab a quick gyro or souvlaki sandwich or settle in for a meal of shish kebab, pastitsio or shrimp casserole.

HOW THEY RATE

4 stars Exceptional

3 stars Excellent

2 stars Very good

1 star Good

PRICE RANGES

$$ Average meal $30 and under, per person


$$$ Average meal $60 and under, per person

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